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Routes in Main Face
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Apprentice, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Arete-Acal, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ball and Chain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Belayer Slayer T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bridger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chasing Amy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Contraction Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Trouble T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Extra Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Blood T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Timer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gray Digger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hard Last S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Humble Pie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ignorant Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Imperial Master S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inca Roads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Journeyman Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Level Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Known Wonder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mush Maker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nimble Novice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nimrod's Nemesis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nobody Loves Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not So Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rattler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Render Us Weightless Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Render Us Weightless/Ball & Chain--Direct Start T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock-n-Roll Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rolling Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slacker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Slash T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slime Puppy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slot Machine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stopper Popper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Switchback T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Far Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Watch Your Crotch T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wild Child/variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 46.72512, -120.80948 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 659 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Peterson on Aug 3, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Scramble to a ledge under an obvious roof. Pull around the roof to a hand/fist crack that widens to a squirm before the next ledge.
Protection
Book says gear to 2.5 inches.
An optional 4" cam can be useful mid-route. Higher up, at the namesake crux squirm can be protected with ~2" gear at the slot's beginning, then wiggling through the crux above your pro. (Or optionally, some other much-larger-cam might allow for placing pro a bit higher near that crux, but it's not essential.)
About 75 feet up, the route reaches “Talking Heads Ledge”. From that ledge, another ~15 feet of crack climbing will reach the cliff-top. At the top of the upper-crack that is just-right of Not So Easy and just-left of Slot Machine, there is a shared pair of bolts (new in 2025) equipped with steel lower-off carabiners.
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