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Elevation: 2,459 ft 750 m
GPS: 46.68424, -120.95835
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Shared By: andyf on Feb 18, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

Description Suggest change

The Tieton (Tie-eh-ton) River crags are spread out along a twenty-mile stretch of the Tieton River drainage, on the east slope of the south Cascades of Washington state. Most of the crags are composed of andesite (similar to basalt), part of a fifty-mile long flow from the ancient Goat Rocks volcano. By some accounts it's the world's longest andesite flow.

There are more than 400 routes, pretty much evenly split between trad and sport. Generally, the crags in the lower canyon (Royal Columns, the Bend, Moon Rocks) have more crack routes while the crags higher in the drainage (the Oasis, the Cave, Rainbow Rocks, Wildcat, Lava Point and South Fork) have more sport routes. Whether it's a reflection of the rock or the primary route developers, the Tieton shines at the 5.10 grade for trad routes and 5.11 grade for sport climbs.

The lower canyon is semi-arid with sagebrush, cactus and oak groves. The higher crags are in mixed forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. Throughout the area, nearly every crag offers either morning or afternoon shade, and sometimes both. With a little planning, summer climbing in the Tieton can be more pleasant than in Leavenworth.

Watch for rattlesnakes in the lower canyon.

More on the Weather Suggest change

For an estimate of what to expect at the lowest elevation walls, check the weather at Naches. For the upper elevation walls, check the weather for Rim Rock Lake.  

Getting There

Suggest change
If you're coming from Seattle or north, cross the Cascades on I-90, then take I-82 to Yakima. From Yakima, head west on Highway 12 approximately 20 miles, turning left where Highway 12 branches off of Highway 410. The first major crag (the Royal Columns) is about two miles ahead on the left, across from the Oak Creek Wildlife Area headquarters. Drive time approximately 3 hours.

From the South Sound (Tacoma and Olympia), or from Seattle to reach the upper Tieton crags, it's quicker in the summer to follow Highway 410 to Cayuse Pass, then take Highway 123 through Mt. Rainier National Park to Highway 12. Cross White Pass to the Tieton. Drive time approximately 2 and a half hours from Tacoma, even shorter to some crags.

From eastern Washington, get to Yakima, then follow the directions above.

350 Total Climbs

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Location: Tieton River Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Tieton River

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
Ed's Jam
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 145
Jam Exam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Render Us Weightless Roof
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 148
Inca Roads
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
MX
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Ring of Fire
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Lava Sundae
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 31
Straight Talk
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 130
Orange Sunshine
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
Reckoning
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
Pure Joy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 32
Wildcat Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Paul Maul
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 71
Saint Of Circumstance
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
Solar King
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ed's Jam Bend > Bend Center
 94
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Jam Exam Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 145
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Render Us Weightless Roof Royal Columns > Main Face
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Inca Roads Royal Columns > Main Face
 148
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
MX Bend > Bend Center
 45
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Ring of Fire Lava Point > Dream Wall
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lava Sundae Lava Point > Dream Wall
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Straight Talk Moon Rocks
 31
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Orange Sunshine Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 130
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Reckoning Bend > Bend West
 46
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pure Joy Bend > Bend West
 51
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Wildcat Crack Wildcat Wall
 32
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Paul Maul Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Saint Of Circumstance Lava Point > Lava Wall/Deadheads
 71
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Solar King Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Tieton River »

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