Elevation: 2,459 ft
GPS: 46.684, -120.958 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 330,825 total · 2,045/month
Shared By: andyf on Feb 18, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

Description

The Tieton (Tie-eh-ton) River crags are spread out along a twenty-mile stretch of the Tieton River drainage, on the east slope of the south Cascades. Most of the crags are andesite (similar to basalt), part of a fifty-mile long flow from the ancient Goat Rocks volcano. By some accounts it's the world's longest andesite flow.

There are more than 400 routes, pretty much evenly split between trad and sport. Generally, the crags in the lower canyon (Royal Columns, the Bend, Moon Rocks) have more crack routes while the crags higher in the drainage (the Oasis, the Cave, Rainbow Rocks, Wildcat, Lava Point and South Fork) have more sport routes. Whether it's a reflection of the rock or the primary route developers, the Tieton shines at the 5.10 grade for trad routes and 5.11 grade for sport climbs.

The lower canyon is semi-arid with sagebrush, cactus and oak groves. The higher crags are in mixed forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. Throughout the area, nearly every crag offers either morning or afternoon shade, and sometimes both. With a little planning, summer climbing in the Tieton can be more pleasant than in Leavenworth.

Watch for rattlesnakes in the lower canyon.

Getting There

If you're coming from Seattle or north, cross the Cascades on I-90, then take I-82 to Yakima. From Yakima, head west on Highway 12 approximately 20 miles, turning left where Highway 12 branches off of Highway 410. The first major crag (the Royal Columns) is about two miles ahead on the left, across from the Oak Creek Wildlife Area headquarters. Drive time approximately 3 hours.

From the South Sound (Tacoma and Olympia), or from Seattle to reach the upper Tieton crags, it's quicker in the summer to follow Highway 410 to Cayuse Pass, then take Highway 123 through Mt. Rainier National Park to Highway 12. Cross White Pass to the Tieton. Drive time approximately 2 and a half hours from Tacoma, even shorter to some crags.

From eastern Washington, get to Yakima, then follow the directions above.

274 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tieton River

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 68
Western Front
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 54
The Cutting Edge
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Mush Maker
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 50
X-Factor
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
Ed's Jam
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Jam Exam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Inca Roads
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 44
Thriller Pillar
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
Artificially Insteminated
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Ring of Fire
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Lava Sundae
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
Orange Sunshine
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Reckoning
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 37
Pure Joy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Saint Of Circumstance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Western Front Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 68
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
The Cutting Edge Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 54
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mush Maker Royal Columns > Main Face
 66
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
X-Factor Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 50
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Ed's Jam Bend > Bend Center
 54
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Jam Exam Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Inca Roads Royal Columns > Main Face
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Thriller Pillar Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Artificially Insteminated Lava Point > Lava Wall/Deadheads
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ring of Fire Lava Point > Dream Wall
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lava Sundae Lava Point > Dream Wall
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Orange Sunshine Royal Columns > Orange Sunshine area
 76
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Reckoning Bend > Bend West
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pure Joy Bend > Bend West
 37
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Saint Of Circumstance Lava Point > Lava Wall/Deadheads
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tieton River »

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