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Routes in Bend West

Ambient Domain T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another One Bites the Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.I.A. (Central Inquisition of Attitudes) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cascade Curtain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruel Harvest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hallowed Ground T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
House Rules S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Private Passion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pure Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reckoning T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salmon Song T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sugar Kicks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tiers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tragically Hip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Treatment Bound T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zero Tolerance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz (1988)
Page Views: 1,795 total, 15/month
Shared By: andyf on Mar 9, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fun roof moves (crux) lead to a killer thin hand crack. As of March 2008, you need to build a gear anchor and rap off a route to the (climber's) right.

Named after the salmon-colored lichen under the roof.

Location

Left side of obvious double roof.

Protection

Small cams to #2 Camalot. If you want, you can fiddle in a nut or two on the opening slab.

Photos

Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
There is a good finger size cam placement a ways up on the slab if you're worried about a zipper. Great nut placements throughout, even in the back of the hand crack. Nuts also work best for a gear anchor at top.
Bring at least doubles of .75 C4s for an onsite. Roof was not as straight forward as tiers, fun sequence. Apr 3, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
This get's my vote for one of the best 10a cracks in the state. Feb 25, 2014
Really fun. When I hear "5.10a roof" I think jugs, but that is not what this is. It felt pretty challenging for the grade.

You can use the anchors on the right at the top of Tiers, it works fine although the rope drag is kind of a bummer. Jun 23, 2012
rpc
 
rpc  
 
A great route! Slabby start, easier-than-it-looks roof, fun thin hands crack that is just off-vertical enough not to be too pumpy. Tiers on the right was equally good IMHO. Jun 5, 2008