Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,630 total · 28/month
Shared By: Bruce Lacroix on May 6, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Closure (From April 28, 2017) Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The straight in hand crack. An area classic. Sustained.

Location

Left of First blood. See photo.

Protection

Gear to 3". Two bolt anchor.

Photos

cnadel
Seattle, WA
cnadel   Seattle, WA
This is incorrectly marked in the Washington Rock Climbing Falcon guide. They mark this climb as being to the right of the roof/teardrop face, which is actually First Blood 5.8. Apr 14, 2014
drsoc
  5.7+
drsoc  
  5.7+
It says gear to #3, but I was happy to have two #4s and even placed a #5. But I am not very experienced with wide cracks and pretty uncomfortable in them, thus need a lot of gear. I would say it's hard for a new leader. But a worthwhile route! Apr 25, 2014
Jason Curtis
Seattle, WA
Jason Curtis   Seattle, WA
The route continues for another ~10ft of easy climbing past what you can see from the base; plan your gear accordingly. I used a #2 above the ledge.

This route will eat all the 1s, 2s and 3s you choose to bring. Jul 28, 2015
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
  5.8
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
  5.8
Really fun, sustained hand and fist crack. I thought it was pretty stiff for a 5.7 but not bad lead if that's your lead limit. The crack takes gear very well. Jun 20, 2016
Consistent secure hand jams until the crack widens to #3 size (could probably place a 4 as well) for the last quarter up the steep finish, so save your big gear for up higher. Some of the pro works best placed deep in the crack so bringing 3-5 draws isn't a bad idea. This is the steepest 5.7 hand crack I have seen and it would probably be 5.8 anywhere else. Nov 7, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Folks, the description says gear to 3 inches, which is the way one should always describe the gear.

When you talk about needing a "#3", us readers don't know if you're talking about model Y of brand X or model M of brand Z. In contrast, inches never change from one manufacturer to another... Nov 7, 2016