Bombs Away

Great moderate route that's hard to snag in good condition.  This was certainly climbed eons ago - if anyone has historical info, please modify.

The line gets a lot of sun, so it's slow to form and it's often subject to extreme avalanche danger by the time it does.  The ice is fed by a massive funnel so don't even think about climbing if there's any significant snow accumulation.  That said, if you can catch it in low snow conditions in the fall on a cold, cloudy day, it's certainly one of the better (mostly) ice lines in the range.

To find the route, locate the obvious darker-colored water streak climber's left of Old Main.

P1 - WIeasy runnel to a large ledge beneath the steeper waterfall (60m)

P2 - WI3+/M4 crux pitch.  Climb either off-vertical ice or follow a sweet hand and fist crack that angles R-L to intersect with an ice bulge.  Continue up a lower angle runnel to another decent sloping ledge (60m).

P3-4 - Easier ice steps (WI2-3) that are easy to combine.  Can be harder to protect if in mixed condition (total climbing 70m).

P5 - Follow easy snow 100m to the right or continue straight up for a more demanding (M5) rock finish.

Descend the lower angle couloir to the N of Old Main.

Climber's left of Old Main

Short screws, doubles .1-2, singles 3-4, wires, kbs, beaks