Medicine Bow Peak Area Climbing

The closest alpine climbing to Laramie, the Snowy Range is visible from downtown Laramie. All of the climbing is on the east-facing slabs south of Medicine Bow Peak. Climbs start above tree-line at around 10,500. Up until July, crampons and ice axe are useful to reach the base. The first route on the "Little Diamond" was put up in 1957. There was considerable activity in the 60s, with Ray Jacquot (who made the first ascent of the Black Ice Couloir) often leading the charge. Jaquot's guidebook to the area has been out-of-print for decades. The 90s saw another burst of activity, largely focused on the sharp overhangs on the righthand side of the face. For a topo of all routes, see the image for Overhang Direct. 

Long (up to five 200' pitches), less-than-vertical routes on slick quartzite. Be prepared to run it out on the harder climbs.  A standard rack is a single set of nuts, a double set of brassies, a single set of cams from very small to 3" and ten over-the-shoulder runners. On some lines, you'll be doing your hardest moves on your smallest pro. This is alpine climbing. Snowstorms are common.

Warning: Rockfall hazard is extreme. A helmet and two ropes are a must. A leader must be very careful not to knock rocks onto her belayer. Most climbers would describe the rock as exceedingly chossy, just depends on your level of alpine experience (no worse than much rock in the Alps).