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Routes in Medicine Bow Peak Area

Amnesia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gooseneck Couloir T AI1 Mod. Snow
Marie Couloir Mod. Snow
Overhang Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Mod. Snow
Red Spot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Red Spot Alternate Start T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 246 total · 8/month
Shared By: Paul Pellissier on Jun 4, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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This alternate start to any of the climbs in the Red Spot area ascends two parallel cracks that bisect a small buttress approximately 70 feet to the right (down slope) of the start of Red Spot. Down low there are plenty of positive face holds to complement the finger to hand sized cracks. As you get higher the cracks generally narrow eventually leading to a thoughtful section with little in the way of crack features (crux ~30 ft). Progress using tenuous crack and face holds to gain a pleasant finger crack above.

Belay on the second of two large but loose ledges (small nuts and purple C3 helpful). From here traverse left to rejoin Red Spot or continue up choosing you own adventure.


Single rack of nuts and cams to 2 inches. Doubles in BD 0.3 range could be helpful.


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