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Routes in Medicine Bow Peak Area

Amnesia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gooseneck Couloir T AI1 Mod. Snow
Marie Couloir Mod. Snow
Overhang Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Mod. Snow
Red Spot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Red Spot Alternate Start T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: K Hull and R. Nessle 1959
Page Views: 1,050 total · 11/month
Shared By: jbak . on Mar 5, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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The rightish side of the Diamond has 3 diagonal overhangs. This route climbs through the notch in the lower overhang, and then goes right to a notch on the Braack Ridge.

This route was originally rated 5.7 A2, but goes free at 5.8+/5.9-


It used to start at the huge pillar which has apparently fallen over. So start in that area.


A standard rack with a couple of 3-4 inch cams


- No Photos -
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
I thought the crux as being where the crack thins out 40 ft. below the first overhang. This was in the 80's though. It might be different now. Great route. Jul 13, 2018

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