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Routes in Medicine Bow Peak Area

Amnesia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gooseneck Couloir T AI1
Marie Couloir
Overhang Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Spot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Red Spot Alternate Start T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Frisby/Jaquot/Mathiesen '65
Page Views: 3,319 total, 25/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Mar 7, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Start at the base of a prominent pillar (not the huge pillar that's visible from the road, but farther left of that) at the base of the The Diamond about 200 feet right of the south edge of the face. Climb the pillar and onto the face, eventually encountering an alcove. Either belay here (it's another 200 feet to the next belay) or continue on to a loose ledge. The next pitch climbs a thinly protected face to another loose ledge for a belay. Continue up, linking the path of least resistance to the distinctive diagonal ledge that cuts up and left across the entire face. From here, either follow the ledge up and left off of the face or continue up to Left Over (5.9+).

For both, continue up another 50 feet until you encounter a cave. Pass the cave and continue basically straight up until you encounter a half-inch steel cable. Belay here. From this belay, traverse into a large, slightly overhanging dihedral and climb it. This is poorly protected right off the belay, but small cams and long slings shouldn't leave you too bad off. Top out on easy (4th class) slabs. Find the Medicine Bow Peak trail and walk off to the south.

The entire climb has route-finding issues, so be ready to down climb. Also, most of the cracks are very tiny (knife-blades would probably work best) so most of the climbing is very run out. Fortunately, there is protection at the hard parts, even on the harder variation.

Location

The Diamond Buttress dominates the Snowies skyline, and is most easily reached from the Lake Marie picnic area.

Protection

Singles from yellow Alien to #2.5 Friend. Nuts. Lots of long slings.

Photos

Daniel Marshall  
  5.6
Climbed this route on 7/15/15. P1 was a little chossy but not bad, P2 was beautiful and finished above and to the left of the red spot complete with a piton. P3 gave some nice exposure and went up to the diagonal ledge. Due to some weather working its way in we took P4 and P5 out on the ledge and escaped just in time. Over all I would say its not a bad route, a little "alpine light". 5.5 sounds about right. P3 is the most difficult. Sep 21, 2015
Sylvia
  5.7 PG13
Sylvia  
  5.7 PG13
The cliff overlooks the Laramie Valley and has a great view of the lake below. The cliff itself is quartzite with sharp edges that make great hand and foot holds. Only open for a short window in the summer between snow. Avoid when wet or possible rain. An early start is recommended because the weather closes in around 2 or 3 in the afternoon. It can get cold up there so be prepared. Mar 8, 2011