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Routes in Medicine Bow Peak Area

Amnesia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gooseneck Couloir T AI1
Marie Couloir
Overhang Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Spot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Red Spot Alternate Start T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 400 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 914 total, 14/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

One of the shorter proper couloirs in the Snowies. Climb between the couloir between two rock pillars, passing an island of rock near the top. Climb increases in steepness from about 35 to 40-45 degrees throughout the climb.

Location

From the Mirror Lake Trailhead, hike along the Lakes Trail until just north of Lookout Lake. Scramble and bushwhack to the northern margin of Old Main, and traverse north until you reach the base of couloir that looks like either a goose bending its head around a rock near the top, or a fishhook (depending on the season). Climb the couloir, then descend by turning north, tagging the summit of Medicine Bow Peak and taking the Sugar Loaf trail back to the Lakes trail. Alternately, turn south and take the Medicine Bow Trail down to Lake Marie, which is longer.

Protection

Pickets and flukes if you rope up. Start early, as the couloir faces due east.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
When we got on it, June 16, 2012, about 4 inches of snow covered very good ice in many spots.

This couloir seems to lose its cornice fairly early in the season, a rarity for Snowy Range couloirs. Its also over very fast. Jun 17, 2012