Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 42.9986, -71.4869
FA: September 2025 (Sean T. Bowen & Dustin Hoffman)
Page Views: 63 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sean T.Bowen on Sep 15, 2025
Admins: Kaleb Ebbett, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

** A variation of the guide book's original double girdle traverse (FA: by Mark Hudon, Base and Gene Valley)

Ascend the Butterfly Alternate Start to the Ass Crack, move South (Left) to belay at the Angel Face's Sub Belay. Continue Along Ass Crack South to a hanging belay along the Mother's Worry Traverse (Belay 5 feet North of the Little Plum Crack). Moving with difficulty (CRUX) traverse left to a jug at the right end of the Dead Skunk Traverse (A red Tri-Cam with finger pockets can be found 4" up and left of the Little Plum Crack's start, this is the key sequence. After the Jug, a Key Blue Camalot in a huge Jug Pocket can be found at the right end of the Dead Skunk Traverse (Do not Extend), follow the Dead Skunk Traverse in Reverse (Passing Two newly installed Pins). Belay at the left end of the Dead Skunk Traverse. Now Ascend Left Diagonally up a steep ramp to intersect with Heave Ho, Cross the dirty Gully of Cake Walk and belay below the Armpits Roof. Now descend the ramp (Traversing South/Left) to the Ghost Sub Belay and further descend the right wall of Zig Zag's first pitch to merge with Zig Zag which will be taken to it's intersection with Beginner's Route..crossing below Powder Puff and Belay below the Creatures Flake. Continue around the arete onto the Tippy Toe Slab and traverse the slabs to a final belay on Gravy Train. ( *** A Double Girdle can be taken , finding the easiest line of return to the Angel Face, finishing on Angel Left.) ** Most of the route is 5.6 climbing or lower, the Crux was originally aided at 5.8+ AO. 

Location Suggest change

Starting at the alternate start to butterfly ascending to the 

ass crack and traversing south (left) twords the slabs, using the mid-wall features.

Protection Suggest change

Tri-Cams needed, a Double Rack with micro cams helpful.

Photos

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