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Routes in Right Side

Angel Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Angel right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Angel: On the Stairway to Heaven T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Plum T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zero for Conduct S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: FFA: Dave Jacobson
Page Views: 668 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jeffrey.LeCours on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Originally an aid line ('The Bolt Ladder' 5.7 C2), this climb was freed by Dave Jacobson.

Easier climbing up cracks, underclings, and edges leads to a stance to the right of a small, hunched over birch just below a lighter gold band running straight up the steep headwall. This spot has been called the 'Hollywood and Vine stance'. The climb follows the gold streak up passing a series of suspect bolts and hangers.

Standing up tall with an undercling (or using the edges on the bulge above) will let you clip the first hanger. A short boulder problem gives way to a thank-you jug and your next piece to clip. It's about to get real. Continue up the overhanging face on small crimps and sloping edges, starting on the right side of the bolt line moving up and to the left side. A few decent holds at the bottom of the dark gold spot below the small roof will let you clip the 5th hanger. Continue right and then up and to the lip, gathering yourself to make the final tough mantle. A jug above the lip, set back and out left, makes this possible. Up on the slabby edge of the cliff is a set of eye bolts. About 15ft above, another set of anchors and an escape to the top of the Rimmon.

An older guidebook mentions that "this can be climbed with slings and biners (5.9, C2) or a Chouinard hook (5.7, C2)".

Location

Climb the gold band on the steep nose on right side of the main cliff. Look for the bolt ladder. Between Little Plum and Angel.

Protection

If you're climbing 12+, you most likely won't care about the lower half since it's considerably easier. .. but it is about 25ft up or so.

7 mixed bolts to eye bolt anchors set back 4ft away from the cliff lip.

Another 15ft up the slab (and easier to access from the top of the cliff) is another set of anchors.

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