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Routes in Right Side

Angel Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Angel right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Angel: On the Stairway to Heaven T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Plum T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zero for Conduct S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 792 total, 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start at the base of the right hand wall looking up a slab and a right-facing corner.... Follow the corner up till the wall gets steep.... At this point, you can protect well and step right and following the path of least resistance back left and to the top of the cliff.... The holds reveal themselves as you climb and most of them are jugs of high quality....

The coolest thing is that you can't see what your next move or piece is until it's in your face, so it's a fun onsight....

I once climbed up this route to find 3 teenagers that were so stoned they were having trouble understanding where I had come from...So I told them that I just appeared....

Map: mountainproject.com/v/new_h…

Location

Start at the base of the right hand wall looking up a slab and a right-facing corner....

Protection

Standard rack....

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.6 PG13
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.6 PG13
If you do this route as described, you will have to hyper-extend and/or back-clean many of the lower pieces and the pieces in the corner in order to make rope-drag manageable for the upper portion. Because of this, I think the climb is effectively PG13 in a few areas. Particularly at one very committing move that is a bit tough in the grade and had tricky protection shortly after you start the upper traverse (Bring a small cam - BD#0.2 or Metolius Blue Mastercam).

Double ropes would be ideal on this route.

We did not try approaching this climb from the right side instead of climbing the corner crack, but it seemed like that may be a smarter choice from a rope drag perspective.

Rounded glue-in bolts on top Jul 4, 2017