| Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.18866, -105.33268 |
| FA: | Rich Aschert, Ken Trout, July 2025 |
| Page Views: | 263 total · 51/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Aschert on Sep 7, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1 5.8- (70m) 2 bolts: use the same start as “Highway to Helen”, climb the 5m, left-facing flake/crack that protects with bomber #1 Camalot then a short face past a bolt and easy terrain into the obscure, heart-shaped dish that encompasses much of the west face of “Acid Rock” left of "Scary Monsters". On the right is the “Highway to Helen". Climb up and left following the low angle, easy, and wide crack up and left. A thin section of crack may force you to climb on the face for a few moves and back to the crack. This was written up as two (2) pitches, but as an option to reduce rope drag, belay just above this point by traversing right to P1 of “Highway to Helen” at the two (2) bolt ring anchor on the right at a small ledge below a short headwall or continue another 30m to the end of the dihedral, mostly smaller cams up to #1 Camalot with some bomber wire placements. Once on the small flake at the end of the dihedral, some 5.6 climbing past two (2) bolts will get you to the two (2) bolt ring anchors.
P2 5.7- (35m) 4 bolts: climb directly above on low angle rock with good edges clipping four (4) bolts then a two (2) bolt anchor with rap rings just below the summit on a nice ledge just left of the black water groove. If you are going to the summit, continue directly up on 5.4 slab left of the water groove passing a single bolt then a two (2) bolt anchor on a ledge at 5m used to lower to the rap anchors then the summit at another 5m. There are no anchors on the summit just body belay, and enjoy a great view of “Sheep Rock”.
If you are continuing "The Odyssey“ or Tour de Platte,” it’s a short, 10 minute approach along the north saddle to “Sheep Rock” and your next climb. If you are rappelling this route, a single 70m rope is sufficient. Also, there is a 20m rap from the "Four Eyes" ledge directly across the landing to avoid the tedious traversing down scramble to the pine tree approach.
Location
The standard Helen's/ Baby Helen's gully approach to Acid Rock: follow trail to Molly Gulch primitive campsite, and follow single track on the powerline trail upstream (south) over a small crest down to a shin high to thigh high stream crossing. Gain good trail 20m above the stream, and follow south as it turns north around a short ridge. As you are heading north, fork right on obvious trail near the small saddle with the foot of “Helen's Dome” visible to the right. Follow steeper faint windy trail and gullies marked with cairns toward the north side of “Helen's Dome” "Lower Bench". About one hundred meters distance before the Class 4 slab, and at the start of a flat section of trail turn, left uphill just past a bull’s eye of black lichen on a boulder then a cairn. It is approximately a 30 minutes approach to this point, and there is 30 minutes remaining. Head up the steeper "Helen's Dome/ Baby Helen's" Gully passing the arete climb "Voodoo Ranger " on the right, and continue following primitive trail and cairns on the "Helen's Dome" side of the gully. The path includes sections with fallen timber and eventually levels out, circling counterclockwise toward the base of “Baby Helen's” until you recognize the "Olympic Climber Logo Dike" on the south face of "Baby Helen's" directly to your left. A Class 1 to 3 approach with minor deadfall is required to reach this point and the route, “Helen Was a Climber.” At this point, there is a gully on your right with a large, fallen tree that will take you to the "Helen's Dome" "Acid Rock" ridge near the rock formation "Diamond in the Rough". Follow this gully for 5m, and turn left along a relatively flat traverse to a point just below the base of "Acid Rock" until you are at a huge boulder just before the bivy site. A very short bushwhack will lead under the boulder with a scramble that will lead to the base of "Acid Rock" below the route "Charley Don't Surf". The "Four Eyes" ledge is located on the left side of the west face . A Class 3/4 5m scramble at a pine tree will get you to the ledge then a tedious scramble left to the base of the route (see the topo).



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