Forever Yonge

The climb is located about 50m left of Tonka and aims for an obvious break in the long roof line left of that route at about half height. Above it exits via a prominent upper corner. The break is formed by loose blocks and is avoided by the normal route which climbs directly over the roof through an easier weakness farther right. The No Country For Old Men Variation climbs the steep wall immediately right of the break and exits over the roof onto the superb, chert-edged wall above. Higher up the OCD Variation climbs excellent rock to the right of the normal pitch 6 following the main rappel line. The climb is a fully equipped sport route with an established 35m rappel route. Note that some of the rappels are very close to 35m in length and would be tricky with a “short” 70m rope. The climb ends at the top of the cliff a short distance from main hiking trail and a descent in that direction is straightforward. At least 15 QDs are required and some longer slings are useful. The climb has been cleaned extensively but inevitably more loose holds will develop particularly on the pitch 3 traverse of the normal route. The climb is named in memory of Chas Yonge who did many first ascents in the area principally at Sunshine Rock, which he almost singlehandedly developed, in Grotto Canyon, and on Kid Goat

1. 40 m, 5.10b. (14 bolts) Climb easily across the corner past the bolt to the break and then go diagonally left on dark-coloured rock (3 bolts) to broken ledges below a small bulge. Make a difficult move up through the bulge and continue past a small ledge moving left and then right to the base of the prominent ramp. Go up to the top of the ramp and make a difficult series of moves either up and slightly left or by stepping right above the overhang and then up. Finish on easier ground to a chained station at a long, diagonal break. 71 

2. 25 m, 5.10d. (15 bolts) Move right and climb up into a bay below a line of small overhangs. Move up right again go up to reach good flake-holds where the wall steepens. Sustained climbing above leads up past 4 bolts to a rest at a large hold on the right. More big holds give enjoyable climbing up and left until a small ledge is reached. Make a couple of tricky moves up to reach a good flake on the left and continue up more easily until the bolts begin to lead right. Traverse right staying high and step down onto a ledge with a chained station. 

3. 20 m, 5.5. (7 bolts) Climb easily on the right past a bolt and up to another chained station. The normal route goes up to a bolt on the right and then makes a long rising traverse rightwards on broken rock towards a tree on the skyline; the No Country For Old Men variation climbs up to the same bolt but then goes straight up the steep wall above and over the big roof. The traverse on the normal route is straightforward although some of the holds are suspect and may loosen over time. It ends at a chained station at a small ledge just beyond the skyline.

 4. 25 m, 5.8. (10 bolts) Climb up above the belay on good rock and traverse across right to below a steep wall. Climb the wall on good holds to a shallow groove that leads up to the big roof. The roof is split by a small ramp and is much easier than it looks. Above the angle eases and there is a 2-bolt belay at the end of a large break.

 5. 40 m, 5.9 (12 bolts) Step right above the belay and climb low-angled rock past a bolt (hard to see) to a series of slabby “steps”. Balance up these, moving left of the bolt line at a harder section, and continue slightly right and up to a high bolt. Climb past a tricky section with two bolts close together and go up to the start of a long ramp/break that angles up to the left. Follow the break with some dirt climbing higher up to a step right at the top below a bush/tree. Either go right to a chained rappel station for the OCD Variation or continue up to a bolt below a large tree where more dirt climbing leads up and left to a two-bolt belay at the base of the upper wall.

6. 35 m, 5.9/10a. (15 bolts) Follow an obvious ascending traverse line on small foot-ledges up towards the start of the big, upper corner. Climb shallow corners left of the main corner and then cross into it just below a long overlap that runs across the right wall. Hand traverse right below the overlap past the bolt line to a good ledge and then make a big move back left over the roof to gain the slab above. Climb the slabby right wall of the corner past a break and up to a chained station on the right.

 7. 35 m, 5.10a. (15 bolts) Climb the slab above past a couple of tricky, friction moves into a broken groove above. Move right at the top of the groove and go up left into a short corner. Pull out right and continue up on good holds to a step left above a small roof. Awkward moves lead up and across right into a steep bay just below the top, Exit the bay to gain a small ledge by the upper, chained station. 

No Country For Old Men Variation: As noted above, this takes the line originally envisioned for the route and goes directly through an obvious break in the long roof system left of Tonka. The climbing is good, with superb situations going over the roof and onto the chert band above. It is similar in difficulty to pitch 2. 

3a. 28 m, 5.10c/d. (13 bolts) From the bolt at the start of the easy traverse right, move up left and climb the grey wall, past an awkward mantleshelf move, to a large ledge on the right. Climb steep rock on good holds at first until forced left and then up to the roof. Undercling the roof and make a big move up to reach a good hold at the start of the chert band above. Pull up on this and climb nice chert edges, in a great position, to a 2-bolt station at the break. Belay here or continue up to the rappel station above. To continue up the normal pitch 5, move right from the rappel station around the overhang and straight up to the bolt at the start of the “steps”. OCD Variation: This climbs excellent rock directly up the rappel line (located on the righthand side of the big upper corner). It is harder than the normal pitch 6 and the climbing is good, although the original line has much to offer in its own right.

 6a. 28 m, 5.10b. (14 bolts) From the chained rappel station near the top of pitch 5, climb easily up and right past some blocks to a 2-bolt station at the left end of long ledge system. The pitch may be split here; also pitch 5 could be continued to the same point. Make some awkward moves up and left into a short corner and where it steepens, exit left onto the outside face. Climb the face on excellent grey rock past a small bulge and into a series of shallow corners. Balancey climbing up these leads to a block below an overhang and an easy exit left onto a small ledge. Move right and climb over the long overlap onto the slabby face above. Continue up past a break to the chained rappel station at the top pf the normal pitch 6. Descent: The climb ends at the top of the cliff and the main hiking trail is just above, otherwise a descent can be made by rappel using a 70m rope. The second rappel is almost a full 35m and it is important to continue past the station on the ledge at the start of the OCD Variation.

Start about 40m left of the shallow cave at the base of Tonka at a log step/platform just before the trail drops down below a rocky rib. The first bolt is difficult to see and is located across on the right-hand side of a short, broken corner below a long diagonal break. There is a prominent, left-slanting ramp in the upper part of the first pitch

Fully bolted. 15 Draws with mixture of alpines (2-4 should be plenty)