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Routes in Tunnel Mountain

Ballista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Gooseberry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tonka (the GIft) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
force, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
missing linc, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, Aid, 650 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris, Ian & Jasmine Perry, 2007
Page Views: 921 total, 23/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Aug 30, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great, moderately long, moderately difficult sport route up a relatively unexposed portion of Tunnel Mountain's East Face.

P1: 30m, 5.10a Climb up the corner/crack feature clipping a few bolts along the way until you reach a roof. The roof looks like an obvious feature to climb but upon closer inspection is sort of junky. At the roof, head left through crux moves using interesting blocky sidepulls and gastons. Follow a few more bolts to a semi-hanging stance at 30m. 13 bolts.

P2: 25m 5.8 Head left through some good rock and crux moves. At bolt 3 or 4 head straight up and contour slightly right to an anchor at a dirty ledge. 7 bolts.

P3: 25m, 5.10c The crux pitch in my opinion felt soft for the grade. I'd say this clocks in at honest 5.10a but, none the less, is really, really good. Move left off the dirty ledge to some bolts. Keep going left until a smooth panel of good limestone is encountered. Balance your way up into a small, left-facing corner and continue climbing to a two bolt anchor. 9 bolts.

P4: 25m, 5.10a Climb up the face using awesome finger locks and liebacks to reach a corner. Stem, smear and negotiate a roof full of loose blocks to reach... a dirty ledge and a two bolt anchor. 9 bolts.

P5:25m, 5.10a A relatively good pitch up a good swath of clean rock. Same type of movement as all the other pitches with a slightly perplexing crux move around bolt 4 or 5. 8 bolts.

P6: 30m, 5.9 The best pitch on the whole route! Climb up on awesome incut, chert features to a crux move heading right and bust through a roof to... a dirty ledge and the anchors. 11 bolts.

P7: 15m, 5.8 A0 Climb up through and around a low roof passing two bolts. Gain the "bolt ladder" (when we did our ascent there were weathered aiders in place) and make a long reach to the last bolt of the ladder and head left to the anchor. A cool pitch if you've never climbed a bolt ladder. 7 bolts. The anchor is around a tree that is seeing much wear, tear and erosion. It would probably be best if somebody placed another bolt next to the first bolt of the following pitch for a more sustainable (and less freaky) anchor for future ascents. I would have but didn't have a bolt kit with me.

P8: 20m 5.10a The sting in the tail. Negotiate some weird moves up to a weird crux but finish on some AMAZING chert features in a left-facing shallow corner. The chert looks like lichen but is in fact bullet proof crimping!

Make 8 30m Rappels or (better option) walk off to the west and contour back north towards your car.

Location

To the right of many single pitch sport lines and to the left of a cave which is the home of a fixed rope dangling in space. Easy to find- look for the surprisingly low bolts of the 1st pitch.

Protection

13 Quickdraws. Some longer runners to reduce rope drag.

Photos

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