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Routes in Tunnel Mountain

Ballista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Dab Hand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gooseberry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Soulier S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Riverrun S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sliding 29 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tonka (the GIft) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Veisalgia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
force, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
missing link, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 5,551 ft
GPS: 51.178, -115.553 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,980 total · 122/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jun 5, 2011 with updates from Daniel Ozero
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra
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Approach: 10 minutes
Descent: 30 minutes
Sun from morning to mid afternoon

Tunnel mountain is located practically in the town of Banff. The east side of the mountain provides sport, multipitch sport, and multipitch trad climbing opportunities. The west side of the mountain sports a maintained tourist trail to the top with several overlooks, only one of which really shows the climbing area well.

Home to the moderate multipitch trad classic Gooseberry (5.8, 7 pitches)

Books to the area include:
  • Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by John Martin and Jon Jones (only covers sport climbs, but has the Gooseberry approach info
  • Banff Rock by Chris Perry (unpublished, but in preparation)

Getting There

From the Trans Canada:

Take the Banff exit and head towards Banff on Banff ave. Drive south 1 km and take the Tunnel Mountain Rd for 5.5 km. Take a left onto Tunnel Mountain Dr and go about 200 m. Park by a winter closer gate and some trashcans next to a wide open field (an underground reservoir).

To Gooseberry area:

Head across the open field towards the cliff and locate the large manhole cover (sorta hidden behind bushes. Pick up the trail and follow it SW. At the first Y, take a right, then angle right at the second Y. At an intersection, keep heading straight for the cliff. When you reach the base skirt south (climbers left) along the base until you find an obvious beat down spot where the climb starts in a 5.6 groove. Most notable, there is a heart shape carved in the rock just right of the route and the route itself has "GB" carved at the start. Kinda lame, but it makes finding it easy.

To Black Band area:

Park at the Banff Surprise Corner viewpoint parking lot on google maps. From the trail at the back of the parking lot, descend a short section of stairs before turning onto a well-worn path that leads downhill through the trees. Follow the Hoodoo trail down to a bend in the Bow river, walk around the bend where there is a slight fork in the trail and head left. Within a short distance there should be a climbers trail which heads left up a beaten trail to the right of the scree slope. Follow it for a few short minutes to the base of the wall. There is no need to walk through the scree slope!

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tunnel Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Sport, Aid 8 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tonka (the GIft)
Sport 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 8 pitches
Tonka (the GIft)
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 8 pitches
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Daniel Ozero
Calgary, AB
Daniel Ozero   Calgary, AB
there is a great route sheet for black band here:… Jun 12, 2018

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