Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches
GPS: 51.17749, -115.55278
FA: Brandon Pullan, Dave Smart, Summer 2022
Page Views: 1,039 total · 39/month
Shared By: Brandon Pullan on Sep 26, 2023
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


14 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

The Doe Suggest change

Some great pitches and some OK ones. It suffers from dirt coming off ledges after rain but cleans up quickly. The crux sixth pitch is a real adventure. 

This was bolted ground up in a day. Over a dozen top-down trips after the FA took place to add bolts and to clean. Other climbers also added bolts on repeat ascents where they felt run-outs could be better protected. 

Grade: Over 20 teams have climbed this and grade suggestions for the crux range from 5.10a to 5.10+. We landed on a hard 5.10b. 

NOTE: This is a new multi-pitch route. It's not recommended to climb beneath other climbers on multi-pitch climbs in the Bow Valley due to loose rock.

P1: Dirty ledges to a grey slab to ledges (5.6 30m)

P2: Big features to a slight move up right on chert (5.8 20m)

P3: Up and left on a traverse. Stay low and up into the corner (long draw). Hard move onto perfect chert (5.9 30m)

P4: Dirty ledges (4th class 10m)

P5: Up left slanting feature with fun moves. Watch for loose rocks near the top (5.8 25m). Combine 4 and 5 with ease.

P6: Stay left of the flakes, cross right and into technical cruxes. Burly bulge moves to a finish left of a roof and up dirty ledges (5.10b 35m)

P7: Fun flake moves to a tree squeeze (5.9 20m)

P8: Up big moves to a right traverse and up flakes to a slab finish (5.10a 30m)

Walk off.

Location Suggest change

Approach: As for Tonka, but continue left beneath several fixed ropes (2023) until a wooden sign that marks the start of the climb. The sign was made by local climbing legend Allan Derbyshire.

Protection Suggest change

20 quickdraws, 60m rope, helmets

Photos

loading