Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS: 39.19908, -105.22081
FA: Mike Anderson, May 2025
Page Views: 198 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Jun 15, 2025
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a gorgeous thin face climb on bomber rock - a face climber's dream. The climb starts by bear-hugging a rounded pillar on some unfortunately flakey granite. Reach a horizontal after the first bolt, then hand traverse right to clip the second. You can go directly past the 2nd bolt on some flakey rock, or make a hard detour right to a nice crack that will get you up to the next horizontal in the crook of the roof, and go back left. Make a blind move up around to the left, and clip the 3rd bolt. Do a powerful, committing boulder problem to get established on a tiny ledge in the corner. Chalk up and center yourself. When ready, reach around the corner, and fire up the face on hero-style face climbing moves on perfect, square-cut edges. These dwindle gradually the higher you go as the pump mounts. Execute a precision deadpoint off a miniscule edge at the last bolt, then make a tricky mantel onto the slab.

Unfortunately, this route has some flakey granite at the start, but it's pretty inconsequential. The rock is bulletproof where it counts on the upper face. This is one of the best hard routes in SoCol. It gets afternoon shade, and cool temps are pretty mandatory.

Location Suggest change

On the West side of the For Real Canyon, scramble up the talus to the base of a chossy column under a roof. Look for a beautiful panel suspended in the air about 30 feet up.  

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts.

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