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Routes in The For Real Canyon

Around the Corner aka Unf.. Real T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chipmunk Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cooler, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Futile Attraction T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
In Your Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Is This For Real? T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nice Jugs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ramp -o -Stone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Real Black Velvet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Real Deal, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Thing, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reality Check T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
So Wild T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Super Nova T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab/Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Anderson
Page Views: 727 total · 29/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Nov 4, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description

The Real Deal is a sustained, face climbing testpiece that threads the needle between Reality Check and Is This for Real?

Start with a fun boulder problem to gain the large ramp, then head out on the face. The initial moves are gymnastic, with off-balance reaches between sidepulls and underclings. There is a decent shake at mid-height before the crux. The crux involves miniscule, rounded edges with poorly located feet. You'll want crisp conditions!

The FA adhered pretty strictly to the bolt line, and the proposed grade reflects that. One could certainly find bigger holds by deviating into the crack feature out left at the crux.

Location

This is the second bolted route from the right, as you look at the Northeast wall of For Real Canyon between Reality Check and Is This for Real?

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13c
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13c
This is a great route on perfect rock! I highly recommend it!

I put in "drop-in" anchors. These are not climbing "booty", so please don't take them.

Oh yeah, I took my first lead-bolting fall while putting this up, so it will always have a place in my heart. If you're hanging on a small hook, make sure you clip into the new bolt before you start cranking it down with your big socket wrench :) !!! Nov 4, 2016
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Thanks for the addition and work, Mike. Great movement. The holds are really sharp, and the climb stays with you the whole way. Really fun ending. Varied and technical. Cold day sort of mandatory. Didn't send but pieced it together one move at a time. Ha! Burly! Mar 18, 2017

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