Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin and Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 2,621 total · 22/month
Shared By: Kevin McLaughlin on May 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details


The opening moves on this route are stiff. Great face climbing all the way to the chains.


This is on the upper ramp on the left side of canyon just past Real Black Velvet. Stand GENTLY on starting block, clip in, and now the business is IN YOUR FACE.


Cams- from a #1 Camalot down and a couple of wires mid-size. Locking 'biners on the first draw suggested. Some long slings for rope drag will help. Belay down low.


Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
Some of the bolts are in really funky spots, and some just create horrible rope drag. That's what happens when you bolt on lead! Still a good route, if you can downclimb to back clean the funky bolts. Sep 17, 2009
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
A few long runners take care of any rope drag. Simple, single pitch rope management skills are all that is required. Enjoy. Nov 8, 2009
Joe Sambataro
Seattle, WA
Joe Sambataro   Seattle, WA
I blew a small flake exiting the upper corner. I'd say the climb has two solid cruxes now :) Sep 30, 2013
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
NNNOOOOOOOOOooooooooo!!! Not "the" flake for the traverse move? Did it leave any type of hold to use?
We did it Saturday, and I was commenting to my partner that if there was ever a hold I would consider gluing, that would be the one. Bummer. Sep 30, 2013
Tim FromMaine
Tim FromMaine   Maine->Colorado->Idyllwild
I ripped off the good bit of the left hand start hold 6/14/2014, sorry. Maybe .11+ start now. A bit strange of a route. Jun 17, 2014
Clint Hager
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Clint Hager   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Ya, so the flake up high on the traverse is definitely gone. I would say the climb goes at hard 5.11 now. You can now do the traverse with very small crimps or you can use some dirty flakes out right.

Still a Fantastic climb. Aug 22, 2015