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Routes in The For Real Canyon

Around the Corner aka Unf.. Real T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chipmunk Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cooler, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Futile Attraction T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
In Your Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Is This For Real? T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nice Jugs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ramp -o -Stone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Real Black Velvet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Real Deal, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Thing, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reality Check T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
So Wild T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Super Nova T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab/Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mclaughlin, Schuler, & Mark Milligan
Page Views: 3,042 total, 26/month
Shared By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 22, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

This route is hard face climbing. Nuff said. Just right of For Real.

Protection

Bolts.
Greg Miller
  5.12-
Greg Miller  
  5.12-
Fun climbing but definetly contrived bolting; I found it very enjoyable to stay left of the bolts. May 7, 2017
Moritz B.
  5.12
Moritz B.  
  5.12
The start can be done in two ways:
Either take the bird-shit ramp up high until you can clip the bolt. This is a little bit stinky and nasty since some holds are super close to piles of crap.
Alternatively you can stay on the face and layback on some tiny sidepulls, using the bird-shit ramp only for your feet. This feels awesome and a little bit insecure. Stick clip the first bolt! Sep 2, 2014
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12
Techy climbing at its best. May 9, 2011
I must have had my blinders on. I loved this climb for its technical, sustained, crimpy, and delicate nature. The beginning is a bit contrived and manky, but the rest of it is a blast! Follow the bolt line past desperately absent feet into the right-angling crack for the intended 5.12 line. Jan 14, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I agree that the line is a little forced, since I was able to climb the arete left of the bolts (while still reaching them), take Is This For Real for a move and then turn the arete onto the face at the (fourth?) bolt and continue up the 1-pad crimps through the rest of the face, while my buddy forced himself on the face, into the right angling crack via some desperately thin feet and a crimp, then up to the same bolt to the shared ground.

That said, the climbing on this thing is freaking STELLAR! Really enjoyable, long reaches on continuous 1-pad/half pad crimps through a few difficult and pumpy spots. Killer!

Also, if you're not stoked about the start via the crap cave, you can take Is this For Real and turn the arete just above the #3 Camalot section of the crack where that little square foot hold is on the arete and still get in most of the excellent climbing on this route. Nov 8, 2010
Scott Bennett
  5.12-
Scott Bennett  
  5.12-
Good climbing, but feels a bit contrived. You could easily climb into the 5.10 on the left down low, and higher (in the crux) the crack on the right pulls you off the bolt line as well.

Maybe some climbers are better at climbing with blinders on and simply enjoying the thin crimping up the middle, but I can't help but chase the good holds to the left or right.

Amazing tiny holds, though, and continuous movement make this worthwhile, even if you do drift left or right a bit.

-Scott Oct 12, 2010