Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The For Real Canyon

Around the Corner aka Unf.. Real T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chipmunk Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cooler, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Futile Attraction T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
In Your Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Is This For Real? T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nice Jugs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ramp -o -Stone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Real Black Velvet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Real Deal, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Thing, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reality Check T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
So Wild T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Super Nova T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab/Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: K. Mclaughlin, Schuler
Page Views: 3,523 total, 30/month
Shared By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 22, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Hands to wild steep wall. This route is challenging for the grade. As of May 30th 2010 this route now has 2 bolts added. As you exit the crack out right, bolts protect the wild moves onto the ramp. This is one of the best 5.10+/5.11- pitches around. A must do now that the bolts make it sane.

Location

This is just right of Futile.

Protection

All the sizes - cams up to a #4, and small gear all the way down to small wires, plus 2 QDs.
Amazing route. The two bolts definitely make it approachable for most. I think the transfer from the crack/laybacks to set up for the mantel onto the ramp, and the subsequent mantel to be in the 11a - 11b range for sure. Those moves were pretty powerful but subtle. The rest of the route is a fun romp to just below the finish roof, where it gets a little cruxy again. Good gear in just the right places. I think I was able to do it perfectly safely with a #4, #3, 0.5, 0.3, 0.4 and the two bolts. Oct 20, 2016
Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
Amazing, one of the funnest trad routes I've climbed.

BETA ALERT-

Don't get suckered out of the corner by the first bolt, which is positioned to run the rope in a straight line rather than mark the route. The 5.10 beta makes a couple reachy moves up the corner on jugs before moving right to the 2nd bolt. I think the book said something about an optional #4. I assumed it was for the corner, but I would have liked to have had it halfway up. Jun 3, 2015
Amir erez
Boulder, CO
Amir erez   Boulder, CO
Great route. Oct 2, 2011
vdzsteaz
Denver, CO
vdzsteaz   Denver, CO
Very cool, varied route. Sweet stemming leads to some steep pulls around the corner. There is a cool leg thread rest right before the roof. May 24, 2011
Scott Bennett
  5.11-
Scott Bennett  
  5.11-
Very fun route, felt totally safe with the 2 bolts. The move onto the ramp felt just as hard as anything on the supposed "5.12" to the left (Futile Attraction). Both routes felt like easy-ish 5.11.

Once past the bolts, the gear on the arete gets better and better. Which is great, because the final move is committing!

-Scott Oct 12, 2010
slim    
Interesting, didn't know a printout existed. Thanks for the info, Phil, I might have a friend in the Springs who might have a copy. Jul 21, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Errr, little printout with all the routes listed in it? I got it from someone who said they got it from Kevin M. Jul 20, 2010
Pinklebear  
 
I tried this literally the day before the two bolts went in, and got sucked left into the flare (hint: it's kitty-litter and heinous) till I bailed left to finish on Futile Attraction. It's nice that the bolts are there now, to keep your rope running out of the bombay once you step right.

I thought this was harder than most of the 11s at T Ridge, but also found myself having to confabulate some sorta crazy, step-up, ootch-ootch-ootch to get into the underclings at the final roof. Once in those you can place a nice piece....

Spicy! Get on it. Don't break your ass. Jul 20, 2010
slim    
Guidebook? Jul 20, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
In the guidebook, it is suggested that this has the same start as Futile. Does it have the same start as Ramp? Jul 19, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11-
WOW! This thing is Sooo Wild and totally awesome. It's more like 5.10e? There is a move low down transfering from the left crack out on to the face that definitely feels 5.11 to me, but the rest of the climbing is just amazing, sustained 5.10+. Not to be missed, might be one of my favorite pitches at The Ridge. May 31, 2010
Lordsokol
Boulder, CO
 
Lordsokol   Boulder, CO
 
One of the early moves on this route is an awkward move out from a chimney/crack and around a right overhang to the face. The second "crux" would be a gentle mantle up to underneath the overhang at the top. From there, undercling and move left to around the corner. The moves on this are definitely "wild". This is one of the most interesting and unique granite pitches I have ever been on! Apr 8, 2008