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Routes in Jebel Rum
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Abu Khalifa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Magic T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Eye of Allah T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammad's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Inshallah Factor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Muad'Dib T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pillar of Wisdom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Empire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Sabbah’s Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scarab, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shai-Hulud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Troubador T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 29.57765, 35.41084 |
| FA: | Sam Boyce and Lani Chapko March 2025 |
| Page Views: | 143 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Apr 16, 2025 |
| Admins: | Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing
Details
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
Description
This route takes a direct line up the center of the Pillar of Wisdom, climbing between the Pillar and Coup par Coup. The climbing and position are classic with excellent rock the whole way. The route is well protected with some supplemental bolts on some pitches.
P1 and 2 200' 5.8 Climb the first two "approach" pitches as per the Pillar of Wisdom. There are two crack systems you can climb here. The right crack is recommended.
P3 110' 5.8 (2 bolts) Low angle face with many huecos takes you to a belay in a scoop.
P4 120' 5.10b (4 bolts) Climb straight up, a tricky slab past a bolt leads to some mottled rock, then rambling. The wall then steepens, follow the excellent technical face to a belay in an alcove.
P5 65' 5.9+ (2 bolts) A steep roof pull gets you to a thread, then more moderate face takes you up and right to a good ledge to belay.
P6 110' 5.10a (6 bolts) Step right on the ledge. Then climb technical face, counterintuitively climbing left of the bolts. Then more moderate face takes you to a final punchy crux on small holds.
P6var 130' 5.9 Walk a bit further right than the bolt line, climb a short runout face to gain a crack. At its top, and before a large ledge. Make a runout traverse left to the belay ledge with MEGA rope drag.
P7 110' 5.9 Climb a crack, traverse left near its top, then keep traversing an easy ledgy zone to an anchor on a good ledge.
P8 130' 5.8 (5 Bolts) Climb an easy crimpy face to another good belay ledge.
P9 90' 5.9 (1 bolt) Head straight up off the belay, then make a technical traverse left (bolt) to gain a crack. Continue up this crack for a long ways, traversing right on a white slab to a belay at a poor stance.
P10 100' 5.10b (7 bolts) Start on easy slab to your left. Then make a wild and steep traverse to the right to gain the hanging white slab next to the pillar. Extend every piece on this pitch.
P11 110' 5.10d or 5.10b A0 (7 Bolts) "The Great White Slab" A sustained, technical and insecure slab pitch eventually links into the Pillar of Wisdom. Shared belay with that route. It is possible to skip this pitch via a short, easy traverse to the right
P11var 110' 5.8 Make a slightly runout (5.6) traverse to the right to gain the Pillar of Wisdom. Then climb that pitch to its standard belay before the final traverse.
P12 85' 5.10a (3 bolts) Start the same as the Pillar of Wisdom, at the first piton, head straight up a steep crack. A couple bolts then takes you up to low angle slabs at the top of the wall.
Descent: Descend the same as the Pillar down Hammads Route.
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