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Routes in Jebel Rum
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Black Magic T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inshallah Factor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pillar of Wisdom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Empire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Towering Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Troubador T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1600 ft (485 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Tom Sobotka, Ondra Benes, Micheal Rosecky 2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,590 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Hayden Jamieson on Feb 17, 2019 |
| Admins: | Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing
Details
As of May 2022, the entry fee to Wadi Rum was 5JD/person. The alternative to paying the entrance fee is to buy a Jordan Pass. If you get the Jordan Pass before you arrive in Jordan, your US visa fee ($56 US) is waived and the Jordan Pass allows access to places like Petra, Shobak Castle, etc.
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
Description
Most of the cruxes of this route are fairly well protected, but there is definitely climbing in the 5.11+ range where if you fell, it could be at least 20 meters. That being said, the climbing is spectacular, on mostly good rock, and an amazing line up the center of Jebel Rum.
P1: 5.11c R 30m- 3 or 4 bolts protect this techy and vertical pitch.
P2: 5.12 R 35m- 4 bolts protect another techy and vertical pitch. Mental crux is between the last bolt and the anchor with scary moves on poor rock around 10 meters past your bolt.
P3: 5.13a/b 35m- Mid range 5.12 climbing leads to a huge rest, two bolts below the anchor. A hard crux guards the chains.
P4: 5.12 R 40m- A very high first bolt leads to a corner which accepts medium wires, and 3 or 4 more bolts to the anchor.
P5: 5.11a R 50m- Well bolted crux to extremely runout but easier face climbing above. Easy to get lost on this one. Anchor is almost directly above where the pitch begins.
P6: 5.11d 45m- Incredibly overhanging tufa features with holes behind them that you can sling for pro.
P7: 5.10+ 20m- Short traverse on bad rock leads you to a bolted belay behind the pillar.
P8: 5.6 30m- tunnel behind the pillar to a belay on top.
P9: 5.10- R 35m- Easy-ish climbing on horrible rock with less than bomber threaders for pro leads you through several roofs to the belay.
P10: 5.11 35m- A short crux leaving the belay leads to easy runout climbing.
P11: 5.11 30m- Mostly bolt protected face climbing.
P12: 5.10 30m- Really nice corner with loads of gear.
P13: 5.7 40m- Easy romping up the giant corner system.
P14: 5.7 40m- Easy romping up the giant corner system.
SUMMIT!!
Descend by rappelling the route with two 50 or 60 meter ropes.
P1: 5.11c R 30m- 3 or 4 bolts protect this techy and vertical pitch.
P2: 5.12 R 35m- 4 bolts protect another techy and vertical pitch. Mental crux is between the last bolt and the anchor with scary moves on poor rock around 10 meters past your bolt.
P3: 5.13a/b 35m- Mid range 5.12 climbing leads to a huge rest, two bolts below the anchor. A hard crux guards the chains.
P4: 5.12 R 40m- A very high first bolt leads to a corner which accepts medium wires, and 3 or 4 more bolts to the anchor.
P5: 5.11a R 50m- Well bolted crux to extremely runout but easier face climbing above. Easy to get lost on this one. Anchor is almost directly above where the pitch begins.
P6: 5.11d 45m- Incredibly overhanging tufa features with holes behind them that you can sling for pro.
P7: 5.10+ 20m- Short traverse on bad rock leads you to a bolted belay behind the pillar.
P8: 5.6 30m- tunnel behind the pillar to a belay on top.
P9: 5.10- R 35m- Easy-ish climbing on horrible rock with less than bomber threaders for pro leads you through several roofs to the belay.
P10: 5.11 35m- A short crux leaving the belay leads to easy runout climbing.
P11: 5.11 30m- Mostly bolt protected face climbing.
P12: 5.10 30m- Really nice corner with loads of gear.
P13: 5.7 40m- Easy romping up the giant corner system.
P14: 5.7 40m- Easy romping up the giant corner system.
SUMMIT!!
Descend by rappelling the route with two 50 or 60 meter ropes.
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