| Type: | Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 29.57765, 35.41084 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 137 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | regaljay - on Jan 7, 2025 |
| Admins: | Gunkswest |
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
Description
Part scramble, part canyoning, part technical climbing. A very cool route up to the top of Jebel Rum that feels a bit alpine in its wanderiness and adventure factor. This route contains at least part of the descent route for other routes on Jebel Rum, and is the descent half of the W->E traverse, so it's worth doing a) because it takes you on a tour through the extremely cool Great Siq and b) you can learn how to get down from this big, topographically chaotic mountain and not totally epic when you're coming down from it (see the numerous campfires here as evidence of that, and the many trip reports online talking about how complex it is to get down in the dark).
I'll post this here since I haven't seen a fully up to date description and explanation of the route on the net.
Starting at the southern tip of the village, walk up to the spring and then up the scree gulley until almost the end of the walkable part. The abseils will leave you at approximately here. On the right side, west facing wall, there is a cairn at the base of an easy ramp going right. Useful to gear up here. A single rope length up the ramp leads to a three bolt anchor. Another easy length leads to a single bolt at the base of a pillar and left of an enormous boulder. From there, follow the numerous cairns around the boulder, to an easy nice looking crack to build an anchor. Til here it's easy simul climbing or soloing territory. Two more easy pitches with slightly more "real" climbing, following the worn, easiest looking crack line lead to an overhang and a big block. Keep an eye out for the next cairn here. Do a weird move around onto the ledge with the cairn and climb nice patina features up and left to a nice belay ledge.
Find an easy way onto the ridge proper, and then you can comfortably walk/scramble the ridge to the entrance of the Great Siq.
Until now, what you've climbed is only necessary to ascend Hammad's route (even though some of the bolts you pass look equipped to go down on). For the descent of some other routes, they will intersect at this point.
At the very start of the Siq, you can see cairns going down the easy gully leading the the abseil anchors. This is the westernmost gully. Take note of this when you pass, as you'll come back to here!
Follow the Siq until you can't easily walk/stem/scramble anymore. Two crack options lead to a glue in bolt for an anchor. Beautiful traverse on bolts, then a chimney (a few bolts). Note the 40m abseil chains here (probably possible to 25m rappel to the first bolt of the traverse, on which there is a maillon). Up further, then a short crack. Scramble up more, then either an engaging stembox (>1.75m recommended) or escape around left to get to a beautiful plateau and the start of the dome land. Follow the domes (topos from the guidebooks available elsewhere on the 'net) until the summit of Jebel Rum.
For the descent, reverse the route and head down the abseil gully at the start of the Great Siq. 25m rappel (glue in, glued piton), then a few moves down and around to another anchor (glue in, threads). One 45m rappel to the ground or 2x25 (the latter probably smarter to not get the rope stuck). All in all a quite nice, quick abseil descent (with anchors that don't make you think feathery, light thoughts) to reach the top of the scree gully.



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