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Routes in Jebel Rum
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Abu Khalifa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Magic T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Eye of Allah T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammad's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Inshallah Factor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Muad'Dib T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pillar of Wisdom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Empire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Scarab, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shai-Hulud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Towering Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Troubador T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 1150 ft (348 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 29.57765, 35.41084 |
| FA: | R&M Edwards |
| Page Views: | 4,909 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Dark Helmet on Apr 10, 2017 |
| Admins: | Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing
Details
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
Description
An incredible climb. A classic anywhere in the world. Takes a direct line up a series of corner systems. Climbing style ranges from liebacks to chimneying. Every pitch is beautiful and it ends with a magnificent summit on the Abu Aina towers.
P1 - 10a // Easy climbing to a chockstone / roof, go left and continue to a belay.
P2 - 10c // The physical crux, and a fantastic pitch. Fingers, to the lieback crux, to a wide section.
P3 - 10a // A short but sweet pitch. Head right into what looks like an OW, but with sinker deep hands.
P4 - 10a // A couple of .2 and .3 cams can protect the opening face moves, better not to fall. PG-13
P5 - 10c // Another incredible pitch. Chimney upward with calcite deposits for friction.
P6 - 10a // A wild traversing pitch on the melting sandstone that typifies Wadi Rum summits. Sling your first pieces liberally to avoid rope drag through the traverse.
P7 - Easy // Easy slab to the raps below the summit.
P8 - Spicy // Make a few moves upwards, unprotected, for summit views. Carefully downclimb.
Rap the route. Recommended not to skip to rap stations because of the possibility for ropes to get stuck. You need doubles or a tag.
Location
Leave the town of Wadi Rum towards the desert. Walk for 30 minutes along the base of Jebel Rum until you see a palm near the base of the massif. Once the palm is sited, head right, well before the palm, towards the tourist / Bedouin camp. Scramble up the hill behind the camp. You'll eventually 3rd / 4th class your way through an obvious wormhole/boulder that will lead you to the final portion of the approach. Follow cairns to the base of the climb, passing a short 4th class section.
Tony Howard's guidebook gives the approach at 30 - 45 minutes, maybe if you're at a full sprint. If you're walking from town leave at least 90 minutes for the approach.
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