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Routes in Wadi Rum

A Camel's Tale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beauty, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bedouin Bedlam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Guerre Sainte S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Merlin's Wand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
More Sand Than Stone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rum For Sail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandproof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Star of Abu Judaidah, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Towering Inferno T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wisdom Pillar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 1150 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: R&M Edwards
Page Views: 769 total · 47/month
Shared By: Justin Skaare on Apr 10, 2017
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Access Issue: Entrance Fees Details

Description

An incredible climb. A classic anywhere in the world. Takes a direct line up a series of corner systems. Climbing style ranges from liebacks to chimneying. Every pitch is beautiful and it ends with a magnificent summit on the Abu Aina towers.

P1 - 10a // Easy climbing to a chockstone / roof, go left and continue to a belay.
P2 - 10c // The physical crux, and a fantastic pitch. Fingers, to the lieback crux, to a wide section.
P3 - 10a // A short but sweet pitch. Head right into what looks like an OW, but with sinker deep hands.
P4 - 10a // A couple of .2 and .3 cams can protect the opening face moves, better not to fall. PG-13
P5 - 10c // Another incredible pitch. Chimney upward with calcite deposits for friction.
P6 - 10a // A wild traversing pitch on the melting sandstone that typifies Wadi Rum summits. Sling your first pieces liberally to avoid rope drag through the traverse.
P7 - Easy // Easy slab to the raps below the summit.
P8 - Spicy // Make a few moves upwards, unprotected, for summit views. Carefully downclimb.

Rap the route. Recommended not to skip to rap stations because of the possibility for ropes to get stuck. You need doubles or a tag.

Location

Leave the town of Wadi Rum towards the desert. Walk for 30 minutes along the base of Jebel Rum until you see a palm near the base of the massif. Once the palm is sited, head right, well before the palm, towards the tourist / Bedouin camp. Scramble up the hill behind the camp. You'll eventually 3rd / 4th class your way through an obvious wormhole/boulder that will lead you to the final portion of the approach. Follow cairns to the base of the climb, passing a short 4th class section.

Tony Howard's guidebook gives the approach at 30 - 45 minutes, maybe if you're at a full sprint. If you're walking from town leave at least 90 minutes for the approach.

Protection

BD double rack through #2 and single #3. Some may want wider gear.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
I got lost along the way and stumbled upon some petroglyphs on the side of a hill nearby... amazing what you can find out there Mar 1, 2018

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