Type: Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 36.15544, -115.43461
FA: unknown
Page Views: 184 total · 14/month
Shared By: KrisG on Jan 20, 2025
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climbs 3 pitches to the top of the formation that makes the right-side of GRB. Start about 50' right and below the book. Bring 13 quickdraws. A 60m rope will work to lower/rappel the first pitch if you move left as you lower. Be mindful of climbers on Zero Shot as the plumb line of the first pitch anchors overlaps at the crux of that route! 

Anchors are fitted with pigtail lower-offs, but if you go to the top please walk off. It’s quick and easy as it follows the GRB walk-off. This is not a good climb to rappel. The traversing nature means you’re likely to rap onto other climbs and the varnish jugginess will snag your rope!

P1: 5.9, 13b, 110': Climb up the blank slab, past an overlap, and onto low-angle slab above. Continue up through some beautiful, black varnish to a bulge and shallow left-facing roof/flake above. Climb past the roof/flake and angle up and left to the anchors at a small ledge. Follow the silver bolts. Note: About halfway up, the route converges a bit with the routes on either side, use caution if other climbers are present.

P2: 5.8, 12b, 95': Climb straight up from the anchors past the right edge of a horizontal band of black varnish. Continue up past a horizontal overlap to a slab/bulge that eases into a sloping ledge below the base of the upper headwall and the anchors.

P3: 5.10b, 10b, 85': Climb up the vertical headwall (crux) onto lower-angle rock above. The upper portion of the pitch angles to the left where the anchors are on a nice ledge at the top of the formation (next to the anchors for the route to the left, Zero Shot). Use the anchors on the right.

Location Suggest change

Located about halfway between the mushroom boulder and the Book itself at a glue-in bolt in the middle of a low-angle, smooth slab behind a 4-5’ boulder pile. There are two bolt lines near-ish each other, Dreamstate is the line of silver glue-in bolts on the left.

Protection Suggest change

Fully bolted.

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