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Routes in The Great Red Book Area

Bury the Hatchet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chips ahoy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Participles S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elementary Primer S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Great Red Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ground up Vocabulary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Liner, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seams Novel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
See Spot Run S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stone Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Subject-Verb Agreement S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato Amnesia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Limmage 1997
Page Views: 905 total, 8/month
Shared By: Gary Schmidt on Jan 18, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Probably a well named route as more than likely you might be using some vocabulary until you reach the safety of the first bolt. From there things can get a bit nebulous. An easier bolted obvious line is to keep trending right up to an easy to spot anchor station shared with Dangling Participles. A second pitch (5.6) then goes 100 ft up to anchor in a cave. There is also a seeming bolt line that goes straight up after the first bolt on pitch one to a second older type bolt. I tried to follow that line but it seemed to peter out and once I was way to high above any kind of pro I ended up downclimbing and traversing right to the other line. Maybe I missed something so have it if you want! Overall a very fun climb though and certainly worth doing if in the area.

Location

Just look for the right angling obvious thin crack about 40 ft right of the big mushroom boulder and consider your future.

Protection

This is a mixed route. The first bolt is an intimidating 25 ft of the ground. Some decent pro is possible in the crack leading up to it, but leader should be quite confident leading at the grade.

Photos

The right-trending crack that leads up to the first bolt is very thin, in fragile rock, and tapered in most places. Microcams, small cams, and the smallest sizes of tricams work best in protecting that section of the climb wherever constrictions exist. You can also sling a chicken head or two where the opportunities for other pro are few. Feb 23, 2009