Animal Style
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Trevor Hobbs, Dustin Stephens |
Page Views: | 169 total · 106/month |
Shared By: | Dustin Stephens on Dec 28, 2024 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Techy gem hidden up in the chimney leading to Tore Down. First bolt on p1 is up high on the right after ~25' of 4th class. 9 more bolts cross over the approach pitch to Jaws of Life (shared bolt replaced with ASCA hardware) with a short sequential crux leading to anchor hooks on a sloping ledge (10c, 30m).
Pitch 2 (11b/c, 20m) tackles the steep, blank-looking orange headwall following a shallow dihedral with several engaging technical cruxes. 8 bolts to hooks at the top of the wall.
The pitches can be linked with 18 draws and ideally a little extension and back-cleaning, but there is a crux right above the intermediate belay ledge with a slab of sorts below and your belayer out of sight. If linked, can lower to the first anchor of this route or to the midway anchor of Jaws of Life (more comfortable ledge) with an 80m rope.
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