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Animal Style

5.11b, Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
FA: Trevor Hobbs, Dustin Stephens
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Flavin Haven
Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description

Techy gem hidden up in the giant corner an chimney system below Jaws of Life & Tore Down. First bolt on p1 is up high on the right after ~25' of 4th class. 9 more bolts cross over the approach pitch to Jaws of Life (shared bolt replaced with ASCA hardware) with a short sequential crux leading to anchor hooks on a sloping ledge (10c, 30m). Alternatively, start on this route or Nice Jugs and belay at the midway anchor for Jaws of Life anchor on a nice ledge (9+)

Pitch 2 (11b/c, 20m) tackles the steep, blank-looking orange headwall following a shallow dihedral with several engaging technical cruxes. 8 bolts to hooks at the top of the wall (10 bolts of belaying at the lower Jaws of Life anchor)

The pitches can be linked with 18 draws and ideally a little extension and back-cleaning, but there is a crux right above the intermediate belay ledge with a slab of sorts below and your belayer out of sight. If linked, can lower to the first anchor of this route or to the midway anchor of Jaws of Life (more comfortable ledge) with an 80m rope

Protection

p1: 10 bolts, 30m, hook anchor (5.10)

p2: 8 bolts, 20m, hook anchor (5.11)

Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Location

Left of Nice Jugs, first bolt about 25' up the Tore Down chimney

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crux section on pitch 1 (5.10), top of pitch 2 visible above
[Hide Photo] Crux section on pitch 1 (5.10), top of pitch 2 visible above
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Been wondering what was happening up there. Looking forward to checking it out! Dec 29, 2024
Brandon Adams
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] 2nd pitch is way fun.

Think I'd personally rather belay at the comfy P1 anchor of Jaws of Life next time. Jan 10, 2025