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Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in *Left Side Cragging
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4th of July Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Aerobicide T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Android Waffle Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Another Fine Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Widow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brush Painted Datsun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Christine's Way Buff Saab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cleaver, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Day Canyon Daydream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Exit Wound T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Finger Bandit T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Kiss of the Spider Women T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Lactic Flacid T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lady Pants T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Less Honkin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Michelle’s Bitchen' Blue Subaru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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More Tonkin' T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Screaming Deal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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String Theory T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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String Theory (Extension) T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Thicker than Water T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thicker Than Water (pitch 1) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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What Momma Don't Know T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Working Class Hero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.57165, -109.67149 |
| FA: | Evan Wisheropp |
| Page Views: | 165 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Nov 5, 2024 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Either a dream, or an absolute nightmare, depending on your proclivity towards the wide and wild. The second pitch marathon squeeze is actually a wildly thin flake; at one point you can reach the other side. The flake is about 130' tall and "firmly" attached on the top and bottom... or is it? Continue up the optional 4th pitch (Exit Wound) and you'll arrive on the rim!
P1. 5.10+ Climb the first pitch shared with Day Canyon Daydream. Starts with some soft/sandy 5.4 protected by a few bolts. A final bolt protects some tricky climbing into open box. Then it's enjoyable, left facing dihedral with a variable crack. After a layback section around some calcite, mantle into a chimney and take that to the anchor. There is a comfortable belay anchor (no rap rings) above the ledge, but since rapping from there would cause rope grooves, there is a rap anchor off to the left.
P2. 5.12- The money!!! The first 30' is shared with Day Canyon Daydream. At the end of the chimney, head rightward into the endless offwidth and squeeze. The crack fairly consistently increases in size to 10" then shrinks back down to 6" at the top. None of the moves are particularly hard, it just keeps going. Gear: .4-10" (6-8" x3)
P3. 5.10+ Short but kind of tricky pitch up to the big alcove. Gear: #5-6 (x2) and 2 bolts.
P4. 5.12 "Exit Wound" This optional pitch is accessible from Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare or Day Canyon Daydream and is listed separately here on Mountain Project, and not factored into the grade of OGN. If you do this stellar pitch, it'll land you on the rim!
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