Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kyle & Eric Johnson
Page Views: 4,565 total · 24/month
Shared By: Joe Auer on Oct 18, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Located just left of Christine's. Obvious splitter in a right facing dihedral. Lots of meat and potatos jamming (ie. big hands and fists). Very high quality if you like that kind of jamming.

Protection

Double set of cams, with extras in the 2.5-3.5" range.

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Joe Auer
  5.10b
Joe Auer  
  5.10b
two pitches. i was wondering if it's been done to the rim. Nov 1, 2003
ljh
ljh  
This route is actually named "Android's Waffle Hot Line" and the FA was Kyle and Eric Johnson—done in the days when FAs took two (or more) to tango.
Apr 26, 2011
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10b/c
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10b/c
Super fun!!! Big and meaty forever!!! Apr 29, 2012
Brandon Gottung
currently Las Cruces, NM
 
Brandon Gottung   currently Las Cruces, NM
 
Anybody know what you are seeing when you can see straight through the wide crack on the right on the second pitch? Looks like a mysterious cave. Sep 8, 2012
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.10b
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.10b
What an awesome climb, big meaty crack with rad options for stemming and rests. Loved the entry moves (I came in from the right since the left is the same size as a majority of the crack). I would recommend five #3 Camalots, and two #4 Camalots for those looking to sew it up. Could probably make it with four #3 Camalots and 1 #4, but expect to use some #2s. The wide finish of the first pitch is pretty wild. I'll have to come back for the redpoint and second pitch. May 26, 2015
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
old 3.5 camalots (or #4 friends) are pretty money on the first pitch. the #3 camalots get a wee bit tipped out. great route. avoid the death block in the chimney, it is pretty loose. May 1, 2017
Jordan Lister
Moab, UT
 
Jordan Lister   Moab, UT
 
The first pitch is around 90’, maybe a little more? One red or one gold camalot will protect the right angled start, after that 3 and 4 (or 3.5) c4s are where it’s at. I reckon my sphincter puckers more readily than others, but to sew it up I’d bring maybe six each; works out to about a piece every body length. Mar 11, 2018