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Day Canyon Daydream
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in *Left Side Cragging
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4th of July Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Aerobicide T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Android Waffle Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Another Fine Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Widow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brush Painted Datsun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Christine's Way Buff Saab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cleaver, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Day Canyon Daydream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Exit Wound T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Finger Bandit T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Kiss of the Spider Women T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Lactic Flacid T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lady Pants T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Less Honkin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Michelle’s Bitchen' Blue Subaru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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More Tonkin' T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Screaming Deal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thicker than Water T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thicker Than Water (pitch 1) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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What Momma Don't Know T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Working Class Hero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Evan Wisheropp w/ Rick Thomas, Eli Dannenbaum, Matthew Starr |
| Page Views: | 34 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Nov 1, 2024 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a lovely new route that goes all the way to the rim at a modest grade of 10+ (and a short crux at that!). It's great fun and leads to a beautiful, prominent diving board on the rim. The bottom of the first pitch (well protected 5.4) was very sandy from cleaning the cracks above, but hopefully by now that's washed off.
P1. 5.10+
Starts with some soft/sandy 5.4 protected by a few bolts. A final bolt protects some tricky climbing into open box. Then it's enjoyable, left facing dihedral with a variable crack. After a layback section around some calcite, mantle into a chimney and take that to the anchor. There is a comfortable belay anchor (no rap rings) above the ledge, but since rapping from there would cause rope grooves, there is a rap anchor off to the left. Gear: 4 bolts, .3-5" (x2), 8"
P2. 5.10
Climb the chimney with a widening splitter for protection. At the top of the chimney, drift left into the left-facing offwidth. Going right leads you to Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare. If you've managed your gear well, you can skip this P2 anchor and link into P3. Gear: .3-5", 6-9" (x2)
P3. 5.9
Super chillin chimney with a crack in the back for gear. Crux near the top with a few offwidthish moves. Another little attentive bit just before the anchor. This bit might be a little annoying if you've linked with P2. Belay on a sloping ledge in the large alcove. Gear: 2-5" (x1-2)
P4. 5.10
Looking straight up at the roof is Exit Wound, an awesome 5.12 offwidth. If doing that finish, just scramble up to the nook. To continue Day Canyon Day Dream, move left into a left facing thin crack, and past a few bolts on a slab to a ledge. Place a nest of gear above the ledge and do an awkward move to gain the perfect hand crack leading to an anchor on the rim. Gear: 2-3 bolts, .1-4 (I think?).
Decent:
You can rappel the route, skipping the P3 anchor, or rappel down from the anchors of Exit Wound (25' south of the final anchor of this line). You're likely wandering around the awesome diving board area, so the Exit Wound anchor will be convenient.
Location
North facing wall, past Raptor Tower, around the corner, past the side canyon, and shortly past Aerobicide, but several hundred yards before the Priapism Pillar. You can catch recognize the left-facing corner specifically if you catch a glimpse of Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare (you'll know it when you see it). It's pretty easy to avoid any crypto by hiking up the debris field 50 yards left of the climb.
(38.5698370, -109.6751150)
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