Type: Trad
FA: Copeland, Eric Johnson 8/89
Page Views: 6,609 total · 30/month
Shared By: Darrin Stein on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


After walking through the slightly jungle'esq begining of the canyon, you will come across an old jeep road on the right side of the drainage. Follow this and you should see a slot canyon on your left after about a 10 minute walk. As the wall comes back into the main canyon, you should see the route on a small ledge. Go down to the drainage and up, look for the trail leading to the base of the route (small, loose, scree slope). Park it and climb. I know the picture is a bit hazy, but the route is as nice as the surroundings. I only did the one route, but this canyon has a lot of climbs to keep you busy for the entire day.


Bolts with slings at the top. 70' route needing small units up to 2.5"
Great splitter 5.9 finger crack. Bring several pieces in the orange and red TCU size (.75 to 1.0"). Nice and shady on hot days. Anchor is a drilled angle a really old bolt. If top roping, be sure to back up with an extra finger-sized piece in the crack (better yet...someone should replace that crappy old bolt). Mar 29, 2004
Jesse Morehouse
Jesse Morehouse   CO
A fun route! Id recommend about at least 4 cams in the .5-.75 camalot range plus one of everything as the crack is varied in size down low. May 30, 2008
Boulder CO
NIVEK   Boulder CO
The picture does not do this route justice. It is an awesome slabbish splitter. A great route to practice locks and finger stacks due to the slightly less than vertial wall. Nov 2, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Fantastic route! Got a nice flash, need to lead this one next time. Great fingers and feet! Jul 16, 2012
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
About as fun as a route can get. Just perfect. Almost all fingers with perfect pro.

Day Canyon is so beautiful and without any crowds. Great place to do a route like this...Kyle Copeland splitter in a perfect place. Oct 22, 2012
Good route. Mostly .75 and .5 BDs. Day canyon is such a great local climbing crag with a bit of adventure. Oct 12, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
A fun change of pace from steep splitters. "Friendly" green and purple camalots through the business. I also placed some #0.4 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot.

Sandy feet keep it exciting.

Anchor does need some love though. Oct 19, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
This is about as good as it gets for a 5.9 finger crack. Has a short steeper section to get over and a tiny bit of rattly fingers. Other than that it's buttery locks all the way up. Climbs like The Coffin in LCC. Fantastic. Mar 8, 2015
Jordan Jack
Lander, WY
Jordan Jack   Lander, WY
I'm not sure why people liked this so much. It's just sandy..... and anchor is tatty and suspect. I climbed this as the first climb in the day and was not psyched until I headed a little further in the canyon to Way Buff Saab and the Brush Painted Datsun which are amazing. Nov 20, 2016