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Routes in Day Canyon Cragging Routes

Aerobicide T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Android Waffle Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Fine Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bee Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Black Widow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brush Painted Datsun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Christine's Way Buff Sabb T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Concepcion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Finger Bandit T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
In the Bushes V0+ 4+
Kentucky Brown Water T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Kiss of the Spider Women T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pocket Rocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thicker than Water T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack Right of "Working Class Hero" T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What Momma Don't Know T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Working Class Hero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Casey Andrews, Damian Vasquez, Kelli Quin
Page Views: 379 total, 13/month
Shared By: Casey Andrews on Jun 17, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb a cool layback feature for a couple moves to the bottom of a flake that takes a #4, then move up the flake until you can step up on a foot ledge and clip a bolt. Traverse left under the bolt for a couple moves of 5.10 face, to a small flake. From here, move straight up on loose, easy rock to a second bolt, which protects 15 more feet of loose (5.7ish) rock getting into the crack. Once in the corner, various crack sizes take you all the way to the anchors. Mainly #3 hand sized, with the last 30' being overhanging and awesome!
The final 15' of face climbing are on loose rock above the last bolt, and there is potential for a bad fall into a bowl feature (the reasoning for PG13 rating). A #5 is the first thing you can place above the loose runout, and is recommended. The sketch factor is worth the awesome crack climbing above, but watch out. Hopefully this section will clean up. The pitch was put up ground up, with a hand drill. Established on Mothers Day 2015, hence the name.

Location

The route is located on the left side of the canyon and is a prominent feature from where you begin to level out after hiking uphill on the old jeep road that starts just after "Working Class Hero." It is a crescent shaped left facing corner that does not reach the ground. It is located just left of a large detached pillar, that has a cool looking crack in its left side.

Protection

1 quickdraw for 1st bolt, extendable for 2nd bolt, .75-#5 camalots, heavy on 3's. Two bolt anchor. Need a 70m to rappel.

Photos

Gregory Gomolka
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10 PG13
Gregory Gomolka   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10 PG13
Climbed this with Damian on lead shortly after it was put up. Not a huge fan of the start, but really enjoyed the wide hand crack to the anchor. Looks sustained but there are intermittent features on the face that provide places to rest, so it can be done in smaller sections. The crack was super dirty, which made things spicy and added to the ruggedness of being one of the first to climb a brand new route.

Not sure if a good trail has been made yet, but as of June 2015 there was no trail whatsoever leading up to the base of the climb. The approach from the wash is abundant with cryptobiotic soil and other fragile desert biology. Please tread lightly and carefully. Feb 28, 2016