Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Skyeler Congdon, Michal Matyjasik (P2 Arete Var, CFT finish), 12/23. Skyeler Congdon & Brandon Gottung (P2 Direct Var., independent finish), 2/24
Page Views: 325 total · 23/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Mar 3, 2024
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

P1: The Claw Marks. Begin in a short, right-facing corner to ledge, then quest up a series of vertical slot pockets (The Claw Marks), trending hard left at 40’ to under a bolt (don't traverse too high). Go straight up into a shallow, left-facing groove/corner, an easy-to-miss pocket on the right for gear, and keep looking for gear leading to a nice ledge and bolted belay, 100’; 5.10-, awesome. 

P2: The Tooth. From the belay, step LEFT, and head up an intermittent splitter in bullet rock. The gear is tricky, so keep an eye out for stoppers and other small gear. Make a reachy move right, then continue straight up the intermittent finger crack until you reach a ramp under a steeper wall. Two options here: step right to a bolt and fun 5.9ish arete (crucial #3), or go straight up to a beautiful, left-facing corner (5.10, amazing and easier than it looks) with tricky thin gear. Shake out, then traverse left past a bolt (crux) - either high or low - into a fun splitter. Clip the last bolt, and make a wild, committing move left to “The Tooth,” an ambiguously attached, hanging block. Climb gently past this feature, eventually cutting left to an exposed stance and bolted belay, 115’; 5.10/10+ and incredible.

There is an optional rap/TR from here with a 70m rope. 

Crusher 3 pitch option: link P2 into the crux of P3, and then make a gear belay on nice ledge right above steep section. Then link rest of 3 into P4 to the rim.

P3: climb steep, bouldery moves off the belay (consider A0 to preclip the bolt) past a bolt & fixed nut, then trend RIGHT to ledge, then climb a fun groove close to the arete. Stay right until a nice ledge with a small tree or hand crack gear belay, 10+/11-, 80’.

P4: The Canine. Be careful routefinding if choosing to do this pitch! The rock quality is bad if you get off route. Go straight up a crack system on the arete on the left side of the final headwall, do NOT climb the chossy corners to the left of the headwall!! Stem up to a licheny lieback on the right, leading to a stance. Then climb up, bear hugging “The Canine '' before making a traverse right to a thin crack. Pull the exposed roof on the right side, and jam and crank off jugs to the rim!, 120’; 5.10, gear belay.

P3 & P4 could be linked without too much trouble. It’s also possible from pitch 3 belay to traverse right to the bolted anchor of Church for Thugs, and rappel to the ground in three raps with a 70m rope. 

P4 recommended variation: Thug Finish. It is highly recommended to link into the last pitch of Church for Thugs for a classic 5.11 finish. This would make each pitch progressively harder with a terrific boulder problem 400’ up, just below the rim!

Location Suggest change

On the far left side of Wolfmother's, start in an obvious, right-facing corner 15’ left of the start of Pet Cemetery. A tree blocks going any further left of the start of this climb.

Protection Suggest change

A standard Unaweep rack to #3, extra thin gear, especially if doing direct variation of P2 (mandatory black Totem/red c3), and a dozen alpine draws.

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