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Routes in Other Mothers

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Bunny Rabbit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boodalicious Baby T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dolphin Girl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First First T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mamacita T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monk Sandals T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newb Nation S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
RSG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rudimentary Extraction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Soul Steeler S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Randall Chapman
Page Views: 709 total, 12/month
Shared By: Rschap on Mar 2, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1. There are two starts, the one on the left stems in a shallow chimney and is harder to protect. The one on the right starts directly above the tree. Climb up through a right-facing dihedral with a few ledges to good ledge with a bolted anchor.

P2. This goes at around 5.8/5.9 and has not been cleaned. There is a bolted anchor with rap ring, but other than that, it has no bolts but probably needs them. The second pitch is adventure climbing, don't do it unless you know what you're doing.

P3? A third pitch may go, but it would be significantly harder.

Location

It is left of Monk Sandals.

Protection

Bring a single set of 0.3-#1 BD, double up on #2 and #3, and a set of nuts.

Photos

Rschap
Grand Junction, CO
 
Rschap   Grand Junction, CO
 
Robert and I put up a second pitch on this route a couple of years ago, it goes at around 5.8/5.9 and has not been cleaned. There is a bolted anchor with rap ring, but other than that, it has no bolts but probably needs them. I think the third pitch will go, but it would be significantly harder, I think. We lost interest after the second pitch, but if someone was psyched on continuing the route to the top, they could message me for beta. The second pitch is adventure climbing, don't do it unless you know what you're doing. Sep 11, 2015
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
I thought the right hand start was pretty spicy. I had a marginal, #3 rigid Friend in a shallow horizontal that would not have kept me off the deck. I think the left hand start is the way to go on this one. Great hand jams up high! Feb 9, 2015
Rschap
Grand Junction, CO
 
Rschap   Grand Junction, CO
 
Yes there are, they're not ready yet. I still have some cleaning to do, I hoping to get it done this weekend. Glad you liked it. Mar 20, 2013
Nice climb! Are there more pitches above this? Mar 19, 2013