Pet Cemetery
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | P1: Chris Righter, Eric Yergenson, Feb. 2022; P2-4: Chris Righter and Skyeler Congdon Feb 2024 |
Page Views: | 461 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | chris righter on Dec 19, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Start in groove to the left of the prominent white streak for original start of Church for Thugs (CFT). Go up to first bolt of CFT, then traverse right, and follow quartz groove/intrusion with gear and bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor.
Per Skyeler Congdon: Pet Cemetery has been extended to the rim!
Pitch 1: start in groove to the left of the prominent white streak for original start of Church for Thugs (CFT). Go up to first bolt of CFT, then traverse right to finger splitter, and follow quartz groove/intrusion with gear and bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor, 11-, 100'.
Pitch 2: stem up a couple moves in groove, then step left to a bolt. Continue up weakness placing gear when you can to another bolt at bulge. A small, bomber nut protects stem moves to next bolt, followed by a nice crack. A final bolt protects slab moves left to the anchor of CFT , 10+, 100'.
Pitch 3: make a committing move straight up from the belay to a finger-size piece, then traverse right, placing a backwards offset nut. Pass three bolts on amazing, overhanging jugs, cutting left at the final bulge to a splitter finger crack. Belay at nice ledge with a bolt and gear in a pocket, or clip the bolt and climb another 20' the the bolted anchor of Playing Pawsome, 10/10+, 100'.
Pitch 4: climb the final pitch of Playing Pawsome up the licheny arete to a bolt below a committing layback on the arete. Be careful with giant, hollow flake on the left before gaining a nice big hand crack in flare, 9+/10- and maybe PG-13, 120’ from the lower belay.
The route goes easily in three pitches by either climbing past the first bolted another 20’ to a stance and gear belay, or simply linking pitch 2 & 3, which makes for an incredible pitch.
Variations:
This route and wall in general is very conducive to creative link-up with the nearby routes. Highly recommended hybrids would be the "Church for Pugs" link-up, whereby you climb the first two pitches of Pet Cemetery as a way to access the amazing corner-to-face 2nd pitch of Church for Thugs and then finish on that route. It's also possible and recommended to climb the third pitch of Pet Cemetery, and immediately following the steep jugs, cut left into the upper half of CFT's 2nd pitch. Either way, the best way to climb Pet Cemetery is to traverse left, either at the beginning, middle or end of the third pitch, and finish on Church for Thugs , assuming you are up for another 11- pitch. Otherwise finishing PC on Playing Pawsome is still, IMO, really really damn good.
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