Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS: 47.8253, -121.561
FA: Nina Friedman, Alyssa Hotz, Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover
Page Views: 1,090 total · 36/month
Shared By: Ben jamin on Sep 4, 2023
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The best 5.8 in Index, according to the Index Town Walls guidebook 'Top 10 Moderates' list. This climb was not listed on Mountain Project and as a result has likely gone unclimbed for years prior to 2023 when it was re-cleaned. Further cleaning is likely required to return this route to its former 4 star glory, but it is more than clean enough to climb as of Sep 4, 2023.

Start in a crack just right of R.O.U.S. and work your way up to a ledge. Walk across the ledge to the base of a 100 ft tall crack. Jam your way up the crack to a two bolt anchor. A lot of the upper crack is slammer 2s so save one or two for the upper section. Bring a 70m rope and tie knots in the end for the rap.

One safety note on this route is the existence of some hollow and/or loose rock - as of 9/4/23. There are a couple loose ones near the start, a giant hollow flake on the left near the middle and another block near the top. I was able to climb the route just fine, but remember feeling like someone should trundle them (but it won't be me because I already spent 8 hours scrubbing this thing).

Location Suggest change

Just right of the obvious cave of R.O.U.S.

The fastest approach is through the Diamond Gully, but the best approach is from the Cheeks because it allows you to combine with other great 5.8s such as Aries, Mourning Star, etc.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Index rack, extra 2s are nice

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