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Splitter in the Sky
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in The Diamond
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A National Acrobat T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Asterisk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Radish, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Centerfold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dark Crystal, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dihedral Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-4 R |
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Dog Fight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dreamweaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Earth's Clitoris S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hell Bent for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hell Bent For Leather S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Master of Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Megalomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nativity in Black T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nothing but Net S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nug, The S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6-7 7A+ |
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Off the Bouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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R. O. U. S. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sabbra Cadabra T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spinal Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Splitter in the Sky T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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War Pigs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wicked World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Vadim Kuklov, Ben Hubbard |
| Page Views: | 54 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Big Red on Oct 22, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
3 varied and quality pitches that culminate with a wild, overhung handcrack with plenty of exposure high above the valley and visible from anywhere in town.
P1 - 5.10d - Climb the obvious splitter corner system that goes out the left side of the giant roof. Undercling past a bolt and bust a cruxy move past more bolts to the splitter fingercrack corner above. P1 has mussies and is a worthwhile single pitch on its own.
P2 - 5.11a - Leave all your cams with your follower, this pitch is fully sport with 13 brand spankin' new bolts. Bring a few extendable runners, however, for a few bolts in the middle. The crux hits quickly on the lower face, but don't let your guard down for the rest of the pitch. The memorable finish to the chains can be avoided by going slightly around right, but don't deny yourself the pleasure of the last move.
P3 - 5.10c or 5.11b - Goin' up to the Splitter in the Sky... Look up at the gorgeous splitter above and get psyched. Getting to it has two variations: the left is slightly awkward 5.10 (make sure to backclean or extend the 3rd bolt protecting the traverse), the direct above is crimpy and awesome 5.11b. Either way gets you to the same delightful golden crack finish.
Rapping with a 60m should work, though we only ever used a 70m. The long second pitch is the only stretcher.
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