Type: Trad, 750 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Ryan Hoover, Michal Rynkiewicz
Page Views: 870 total · 41/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on Sep 26, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

A project eyed for years, NIB follows a stunning dyke system. The route has supreme face climbing that is not to be missed.

P1 5.9: Climb R.O.U.S., a fun, dark bolted chimney.

P2 5.11: The fight begins. Start up the Dark Crystal (Seasonally wet, usually dries in early June), climb to where the original route breaks left. Instead, climb straight up, clip a bolt and pull the roof. A couple boulder moves lead to a pumpy hand traverse. Save a hand size piece of gear.

P3 5.10: Climb the short tricky arĂȘte of the Dark Crystal.

P4 5.11d: Break left and follow the obvious rail. Techy, powerful and sustained climbing makes up this all time classic pitch.

P5 5.10-: A short catwalk move brings you into a chimney like feature.

P6 5.10-: Start in the chimney and follow your way up a perfect face climbing following dykes, knobs and jugs.

P7 5.7: A short pitch brings you to the ledge.

P8 5.10+: Follow the corner until it opens up into a hand crack through a roof. Straight in jam you're way up this beauty.

P9 5.8: Top the wall out on easy climbing.

Location

This route starts on R.O.U.S., which is the dark bolted chimney uphill and left of the y intersection at the top of the Diamond Gully.

Protection

Standard Rack to 4", a 5" cam can be used for the Dark Crystal if so inclined. 70 meter rope. I don't think any nuts were placed.

Photos