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Routes in The Diamond

A National Acrobat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Centerfold T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dark Crystal, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dog Fight AKA Dike Fight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamweaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hell Bent For Leather S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hell Bent for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Master of Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nativity in Black T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nothing but Net S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
R. O. U. S. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sabbra Cadabra T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ryan Hoover, Michal Rynkiewicz, Derek Pearson, Chandler Davis
Page Views: 1,635 total, 305/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on Jun 15, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

A climb for the ages. Sabbra has everything from full pitch face splitters to blank slabs, cryptic face to beautiful corners. Linking this with Planet Caravan on the Duck will be sure to not leave you wanting! The route dries very quick after the rain, there are 3 small seeps and can be climbed around without any issues. The route is climbable year round.


P1 5.6 : Climb the first pitch of Hell Bent for Glory.

P2 5.10+: Continue the first 15 ft of Hell Bent's 2nd pitch, break left at the bolt line. Bolts/Gear.

P3 5.11- : Above the belay, climb straight up to a traversing pitch of techy yet powerful climbing that leads to the base of the finger crack. Bolts/Gear

P4: 5.11- : Follow the long striking finger crack. Thin Gear

P5 5.10-: Start up the corner system and break right onto face climbing that leads to Eyelid Ledge. Bolts/Gear

P6 5.10+ : From the belay, follow a ramp and break through the left side of eyelid roof. Fun climbing on highly featured stone. One can skip the rap anchor and belay at the base of the corner on Lovely Lady Ledge. Bolts

P7 5.9 : Climb the corner. Break right at the roof and belay atop of the slab. Gear

P8 5.10 : Start up the overhung hand crack and pull the roof. Place small good cams and climb left into the face. Gear

Location

Follow the tracks from town to the Lookout Point trail. Follow it all the way to the Rattletale wall rock gully. Continue up the gully up and left toward the Duck Wall. Skirt left along the base of the Duck Wall to the Diamond Gully. In winter this can be flowing water, but can still be climbed using the fixed lines (Fresh from Winter 2017). Continue up the gully until you hit a split at the base of the diamond. Head right at the junction and follow the trail up to an obvious splitter 40 feet past Centerfold.

Start on P1 of Hell Bent for Glory. Start up P2 of Hell Bent and immediately break left at the first bolt on P2. Straight up is Hell Bent for Glory's second pitch (5.10+).

To link with Planet Caravan, climb the fixed line at the top of Planet. Traverse left along the base of the small rock buttress and ascend a fixed line to the base of the Diamond.

Protection

Single Rack to 4”, doubles to .5, rack of nuts including RP’s, 12 draws (a few being alpine draws). Rappel the route with a single 70.

Sabbath Bloody Sabbath

Photos

Another fantastic contribution to Index--and a great reason to climb at the Diamond Wall. The closest I came to falling was on the 2nd pitch--ironically graded 10+, but that was probably a height thing, as slab climbing with limited feature style climbing seems to translate this way. my breakdown felt like this:
p1 - 5.7
p2 - 11b/c
p3 - 11a
p4 - 11b

...and the rest seemed spot on. Thank you FA team for all your hard work. I think P 3 and 4 really stand out for sure. The rock so grippy! Sep 16, 2017