Type: Trad, 750 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover
Page Views: 1,523 total · 76/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on Sep 26, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

A National Acrobat is beautiful route that connects The Diamond's most striking features. It is a physical journey that is sure to test all of you're granite skills.

P1 5.9: Climb R.O.U.S., a fun, dark bolted chimney.

P2 5.11: The fight begins. Start up the Dark Crystal (Seasonally wet, usually dries in early June), climb to where the original route breaks left. Instead, climb straight up, clip a bolt and pull the roof. A couple boulder moves lead to a pumpy hand traverse. Save a hand size piece of gear for the end.

P3 5.10: Climb the short tricky arĂȘte of the Dark Crystal. This could easily be linked into P4.

P4 5.12- (5.10+ A0): The pitch of eternal sadness. Break right from the ledge into a shallow right facing dihedral. After a somewhat moderate start, a short but devastatingly granite crux, followed by more easy climbing brings you into the Dihedral.

P5 5.11-: Dubbed the Book of Earth Mother, this pitch offers some of the best corner climbing Index has to offer. Perfect.

P6 5.11d: If the corner didn't get you giddy, this slightly overhung 40 meter pitch leads up the glorious Zebra Headwall. Discontinuous cracks, jugs, and a sloper crux is sure to grab your attention.

P7 5.0: Move belay up and right to the next anchor.

P8 5.11: Climb steep rock to a slab crux. Continue up the slab and pull the fat roof on sexy slopers.

P9 5.9: Fun climbing top's you out on the highest point of The Diamond.

"Just remember love is life and hate is living death. Treat your life for what it's worth and live for every breath. Looking back I've lived and learned, but now I'm wondering. Here I wait and only guess what this next life will bring"

Location

This route starts on R.O.U.S., which is the dark bolted chimney uphill and left of the y intersection at the top of the Diamond Gully.

Protection

Standard Rack to 4", a 5" cam can be used for the Dark Crystal if so inclined. A FULL 70 meter rope. We were barely able to simul-rap the Zebra pitch to reach the anchors with stretch. It may be wise to bring an 80 or a tag line (you will likely want to haul your pack anyhow). I don't think any nuts were placed.

Photos

This belongs in a guidebook: "a short but devastatingly granite crux". Sep 28, 2017
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
  5.12-
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
  5.12-
A couple months too late for that! Ha Sep 28, 2017