Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: P1,3-5 FA Fred Grafton, Jim Yoder P2,6-7 FA Derek Pearson, Michal Rynkiwicz, Chandler Davis, Ryan Hoover
Page Views: 10,139 total · 77/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on May 10, 2013
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

An old route that has recently been retro fitted and cleaned. 1 aid pitch (an old dead tree that was climbed) turned free and 2 new pitches make for a sustained 5.10/5.10+ route that goes up clean featured stone to the top of the Diamond.

P1: 5.6 Follow the left-trending crack.

P2: 5.10d Follow the corner to another ledge. Climb directly above the ledge pulling bouldery moves on bolts. Belay below the obvious corner in Hell Bent.

One could also climb the second pitch of Sabbra Cadabra to get to the Ledge (5.10).

P3: 5.10 Long, continuous left-facing dihedral. A stunner! Double rack from .75 to 3". A single .5 and #3 as well. The only gear you need after this pitch is a single rack to 2".

P4: 5.10 Straight up off the belay to two bolts. Right traverse to a dike.

P5: 5.10- Follow the beautiful leftward traversing dike.

P6: 5.10 Climb left out of the glory hole. Slightly cryptic climbing to start leads up good holds on steep white granite.

P7: 5.10 Climb easy terrain to a bolt. Follow the short corner to fun blocky overhung terrain to an out of this world exposed roof finish that sits over the whole wall! Very useful to extend the bolts to prevent rope drag.

Protection Suggest change

Single Rack to 4". Doubles from .75 - 2". 12 draws, with about half being alpine draws. We didn't place any nuts. Rappel the route with a 70 meter rope.

Location Suggest change

Follow the tracks from town to the Lookout Point trail. Follow it all the way to the Rattletale wall rock gully. Continue up the gully up and left toward the Duck Wall. Skirt left along the base of the Duck Wall to the Diamond Gully. In winter this can be flowing water, but can still be climbed using the fixed lines (Fresh from Winter 2017). Continue up the gully until you hit a split at the base of the diamond. Head right at the junction and follow the trail up to an obvious splitter 40 feet past Centerfold.