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Routes in The Diamond

A National Acrobat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Centerfold T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dark Crystal, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dog Fight AKA Dike Fight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamweaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hell Bent For Leather S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hell Bent for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Master of Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nativity in Black T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nothing but Net S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
R. O. U. S. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sabbra Cadabra T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: P1,3-5 FA Fred Grafton, Jim Yoder P2,6-7 FA Derek Pearson, Michal Rynkiwicz, Chandler Davis, Ryan Hoover
Page Views: 2,644 total, 48/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on May 10, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

An old route that has recently been retro fitted and cleaned. 1 aid pitch (an old dead tree that was climbed) turned free and 2 new pitches make for a sustained 5.10/5.10+ route that goes up clean featured stone to the top of the Diamond.

P1: 5.6 Follow the left-trending crack.

P2: 5.10d Follow the corner to another ledge. Climb directly above the ledge pulling bouldery moves on bolts. There is an anchor below Hell Bent Ledge. You can belay here (sharpish edge above) and move the anchor to the base of the Hell Bent corner, or continue all the way up to Hell Bent Ledge.

One could also climb the second pitch of Sabbra Cadabra to get to the Ledge (5.10).

P3: 5.10 Long, continuous left-facing dihedral. A stunner! Double rack from .75 to 3". A single .5 and #3 as well. The only gear you need after this pitch is a single rack to 2".

P4: 5.10 Straight up off the belay to two bolts. Right traverse to a dike.

P5: 5.10- Follow the beautiful leftward traversing dike.

P6: 5.10 Climb left out of the glory hole. Slightly cryptic climbing to start leads up good holds on steep white granite.

P7: 5.10 Climb easy terrain to a bolt. Follow the short corner to fun blocky overhung terrain to an out of this world exposed roof finish that sits over the whole wall! Very useful to extend the bolts to prevent rope drag.

Protection

Single Rack to 4". Doubles from .75 - 2". 12 draws, with about half being alpine draws. We didn't place any nuts. Rappel the route with a 70 meter rope.

Location

Follow the tracks from town to the Lookout Point trail. Follow it all the way to the Rattletale wall rock gully. Continue up the gully up and left toward the Duck Wall. Skirt left along the base of the Duck Wall to the Diamond Gully. In winter this can be flowing water, but can still be climbed using the fixed lines (Fresh from Winter 2017). Continue up the gully until you hit a split at the base of the diamond. Head right at the junction and follow the trail up to an obvious splitter 40 feet past Centerfold.
Ryan Hoover
  5.10+
Ryan Hoover  
  5.10+
If it rains for real this weekend we plan to take care of it. If not it's really only in the way on rapel, so just don't grab it when rapping down the roof. Sep 12, 2017
Great route. My partner and I went up yesterday and debated long and hard about trundling a very large and very loose block below the final roof, directly above pitch 6 anchors. We opted not to, since it was midday and didnt have anyone on the ground to spot. Not usually one to sound the alarm over rocks, but this one's barely floating on moss and dirt, and it's huge. Sep 12, 2017
Ryan Hoover
  5.10+
Ryan Hoover  
  5.10+
Stoked you enjoyed the route, we've spoke about moving that bolt down a foot. Our buddies Devin and Josh are getting Centerfold cleaned up and we will also be replacing some bolts. I'm not sure on a time frame to finish, but p1-3 are pretty dirty at the moment due to the rest of the cleaning in the area. It will all be done before too long though! Aug 12, 2017
Amazing to see such prolific change at the Diamond---all for the best. Despite 93 degree heat, did this route yesterday and the challenge was mostly heat related suffering. Of personal note, p2 felt 11- and the bolt protecting the initial moves off of ledge (the beginning of the harder climbing) are not protected for someone my stature. I can see why the bolt is there if you happen to be average height and can reach the first obvious flake/jug; but climbing the thin moves to the right with current bolt placement problematic, but whatever. Last 2 pitches were my favorite. So good. Thank you guys for all the hard work! The other routes look amazing! Also, thanks to whomever is cleaning up Centerfold and chopped that tree out of p4. Kudos! Aug 11, 2017
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Thanks for the hard labor on this classic climb!! Did a quickie report : https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2017/07/17/hell-bent-for-glory-index/ Jul 16, 2017
Ryan Hoover
  5.10+
Ryan Hoover  
  5.10+
Josh, you went the right way on p2, straight up at the bolt line. Just tricky! Jul 14, 2017
Josh! Thanks for your description of the route. So cool. Jul 13, 2017
Josh Baxley
Seattle, WA
  5.11-
Josh Baxley   Seattle, WA
  5.11-
This route is rad! Great work cleaning that thing up. Each pitch gets better the higher you go. Splitter dihedral to roof on p3 was great, p7 was crazy fun too. Gear beta is accurate, smallest pro was a couple of blue mastercams or red C3s for the traverse pitch. We were happy with one #4 on p3.

P2 - 5.11a/b. We took the bolt line directly above and right of the old tree corner. I felt like this was the crux of the route, but maybe stay far right of the bolt line?
P3 - 5.10b/c. Awesome, but the last stretch to the anchor after the roof wasn't the hand jamming party I was expecting.
P4 - 5.10b/c. Reachy mantle move off the anchor, then strenuous traverse on slopers with occasional finger locks
P5 - 5.9+ or 10a. Fun face climbing on good holds.
P6 - 5.10c/d. Getting above the first bolt was tough for me, then it's fun 5.10-
P7 - mid 5.10. So good. Easy to get intimated by the big roofs, but once you commit it's a trip to jug town Jul 12, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Thanks Ryan.


Your photos for this route are fantastic. I'm psyched to try it.

---

Correction: It is all yours. Of course, I don't mind if you delete any or all that I wrote for the route description etc. Jul 5, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
The route has vastly changed and improved since I first posted it.

I'd happily transfer "ownership" of this page to someone on the "new FA" team so you can easily update it. Derek? Michal? Ryan? Jul 4, 2017
P1 follows the easy crack
P2 can be sabbra caddabra or climb the corner to the ledge then follow the bolts at 11- move belay to the base of the corner Jul 4, 2017
The traverse pitch is 10b/c and the last pitch is easier 10a

The .75 min is around 1" , pretty close and the 3 is 2" to 3.46" the 4 is 2.6 to 4.5

Small cam or nut
3
.75 two in a row
2
4 at the end of the arch
2
1
3

Thats what the sequance of gear that remember. Thats sewing it up .
The small cams are for the traverse pitch. I didnt use anything bigger then a .75 .
I remember a 00 was nice to have. Jul 25, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Thanks Derek.

How hard are P4 (traverse) and P5?

Also, about the pro, roughly, what is the max size in inches of the 3 and 4 BD, and the min size of the 0.75? Jul 25, 2016
I added a topo to help with some route info. Since you posted this Jon a little bit has changed with this route. The original Clint Cummins guide info was a little off as well. The point of aid was at a tree on the second pitch(now gone) and possibly on the traverse pitch since that was how I had to do it when I lead the first time. The crack was filled with dirt and moss. It is now a sweet pitch. After cleaning the corner , traverse and last pitch I solo tope roped it and it was amazing! The corner is awesome this was climbable when Brian and I got to it a few years ago. The best way to get to the upper part of HBFG right now is by climbing Dike Fight 11d****.

Single rack of cams from 000 to 4BD, double the .75 to 3.
Runners are helpful but rack of 12 draws should be enough. Jul 25, 2016
FA, Fred Grafton , Jim Yoder Sep 16, 2013