Canadian Jackhammer
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 44.14305, -107.25785 |
| FA: | Kevin Wilkinson, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 321 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Pandy Fackler on Aug 1, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This is a great, less-traveled route at a well-traveled crag. Hard and continuous right off the ground for the first four bolts. Compression moves or laybacking on the pillar feature lead to some big moves between good, sharp crimps. A small rightward traverse passing the fourth bolt gets you to a quick shake at bolt five, and another tricky sequence passing bolt six. From here, it’s just fun and pumpy climbing on highly textured rock for a while to the chains.
The Huey guide calls it 13a, but most people on 8a.nu take soft 13b - choose your own destiny. Seems like you can link into the second half of Incredible Horsecock to make it a solid 13b if you’re into that kind of thing.



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