Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 7,647 total · 54/month
Shared By: Bill Ballace on May 3, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Description

This spectacular line takes the best stone up the middle of the SUPERRATIC PILLAR proper. Unlike Happiness, this route has a well defined crux at about the 4th or 5th bolt. Props to HUEY for this Genius creation.

Location

route immediately to the right of Hellion. Hellion starts in a small dihedral that peters out at about 10 feet. Find that feature and then it is one route over.

Protection

9 to anchors

Photos

Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
This has got to be one of the best routes for the grade... anywhere. Or as Huey says "KREIKKEYS!!! HOLY SHIT!!! DO THIS ROUTE!!!" Jul 19, 2008
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Ditto! Best 12b I have seen or done! Top three sport pitch in my book! STOP LOOKING AT THE BOOK AND DO IT!!! Aug 23, 2008
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
 
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
 
This thing kicked my teeth in harder than any other 12b I jumped on, including Happiness. Powerful! Sep 15, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great freakin route! Do it....... Jun 20, 2013
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Probably was a bit more perfect (and easier) in its earlier days... a bit polished now. Wonderful climbing nonetheless! Aug 15, 2013
Eliot Augusto
Boulder, CO
 
Eliot Augusto   Boulder, CO
 
Super polished. I don't think the grade of this route is above me. Its a style I like. But I had a super hard time getting my feet to stick. I kept popping off below the second bolt from suuuuper polished feet, which someone next to us suggested we stick clip. It was more manageable when the route kicked back. Jul 4, 2016
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
This isn't really a good climb. Polished, tweaky holds, polished holds, uncomfortable. Many, many better 12bs at ten sleep. Aug 3, 2017
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
 
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
 
^^ agreed...

Looks amazing, has some fun moves, but far from the best 12b (or any grade, for that matter) in Ten Sleep. It does, however, get shade much earlier than many other routes! Sep 4, 2017