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Routes in Superratic Pillar

Big Yellow Butterfly S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Slabbath S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boy Howdy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F'd in the A S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Great White Behemoth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
He Biggum S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellion S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Incredible Horse Cock, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Insect, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kyberspace S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Leggo My Guanno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neutral Spirit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ooh La La S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Party in the VAJAYJAY S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silly Rabbit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skwish Mitten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tetonka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Time Bandits In The Crows Nest S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tricks Are For Hookers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tricks for You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trouble in the Forest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk The Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Got Nothin on Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Equipped by Joe Kinder, cleaning and FA by Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 381 total · 7/month
Shared By: Craig Faulhaber on Aug 11, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

This strangely appealing slabby face climb is difficult right off the ground. Very very thin climbing with surprisingly good clipping stances gets you to a little pocket (that feels like the biggest jug in the world) around bolt 5. Easier climbing including some dirty holds leads to the anchors.

Not the most comfortable belay from up in the insect corner (or from the slanted boulder). You might consider walking down a bit and belaying from below.

This route gets 12+ in the guidebook. I'm guessing 12b... maybe c.

Location

Immediately to the left of the warm-ups in the insect corner is a black, blank-looking, just less than vertical face above a slanted boulder.

Protection

Bring 7 draws +2 for anchors

Photos

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