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Routes in Superratic Pillar

Big Yellow Butterfly S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Slabbath S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boy Howdy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F'd in the A S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Great White Behemoth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
He Biggum S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellion S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Incredible Horse Cock, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Insect, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kyberspace S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Leggo My Guanno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neutral Spirit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ooh La La S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Party in the VAJAYJAY S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silly Rabbit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skwish Mitten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tetonka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Time Bandits In The Crows Nest S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tricks Are For Hookers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tricks for You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trouble in the Forest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk The Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Got Nothin on Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 433 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris. T. on Sep 26, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Start from a flat rock that is perched nicely on the edge of the slope. Thin moves off the ground continue for about 55 feet on less than vertical stone with several cruxes. Find a good rest, then continue up the vertical wall on better holds for 25 feet to the anchor. A final hard sequence gaurds the anchor.
The movement is fantastic for the entire route length, and several hard sections require focus all the way to the anchor.
The climb consists of mostly great rock until the last 10 feet where some crumbly stuff is encountered. The rock may be a bit sharp in spots.

This route is overshadowed by the other classics in the area, but is well worth the effort, and deserves more traffic.

Location

Between 'Astro Glide' and 'Trouble In The Forest' at Superratic!

Protection

13? bolts to a 2 bolt sport anchor

Photos

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