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Routes in Superratic Pillar

Big Yellow Butterfly S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Slabbath S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boy Howdy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F'd in the A S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Great White Behemoth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
He Biggum S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellion S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Incredible Horse Cock, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Insect, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kyberspace S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Leggo My Guanno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neutral Spirit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ooh La La S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Party in the VAJAYJAY S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silly Rabbit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skwish Mitten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tetonka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Time Bandits In The Crows Nest S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tricks Are For Hookers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tricks for You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trouble in the Forest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk The Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Got Nothin on Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 1,339 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on Oct 30, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Begin as with Pick Pocket climbing the initial 20' flake section and clipping the bolts out left. When the flake ends stay left of the right angling crack. This prompts increasingly harder moves involving some slopers for the left hand. Leave the crack via an obvious pocket, the crux, and power up through crimps. The climbing eases a bit but never really lets up, which delivers quite the pump. One of Kevins first TS contributions, and a fine one at that.

Location

Same start as Pick Pocket but heads straight up on its own bolt line.

Protection

11 bolts

Photos

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James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.13a
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.13a
Some people follow the Kyberspace bolt line up fun compression moves, while others stay to the right in the Pick Pocket crack, while others still stay on pick pocket and traverse into Kyberspace above the crux. I can't speak to the relative difficulty of any option, but I think the compression sequence is some of the funnest climbing on the route and is overall a better option. Jul 11, 2016
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
 
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
 
It does seem at first like a bit of a squeeze, but the truth is that Pick Pocket trends right for the first 2/3's of the route where Kyber goes straight up. Although they share the same starting moves, they DO have separate bolt lines, allowing climbers to climb either route independently. Anyone who has climbed both routes would know these facts and realize that word "squeeze job" doesn't really apply. Nov 5, 2013
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.13a/b
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.13a/b
Some feel that this is such a squeeze job that its not worth doing. I disagree with that attitude. Great line fun moves Yes you climb up about 5 bolts on PP, then cut left Amazing climb. Jul 17, 2013